Ignition troubles

Postby Nick Spano (74chall) » 23 Jul 2002 2:22

I'm having some problems with my ignition. When trying to start my car it will not start in Park, but in Neutral it will fire right up. Some times it starts in Park when it feels like it.Anyone have a clue as to what this could be? Also when im cranking it, it fires up but as soon as I let off cranking ( turning the key) it dies. I ran a hot wire from the coil to the battery and it stays running that way. Can anyone help me out? Thanks guys
Nick
Nick Spano (74chall)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Hans (72challenger) » 23 Jul 2002 10:55

At least I can help with your problem about starting in N & P. I have the same 'problem'. I have a B&M pro ratchet shifter installed operated by cable. When adjusting the cable while installing everything you have to adjust that every shift gives the right reaction in the trans.

By adjusting it so that the P works perfectly the chance grows that it will slip a bit in 1st so I did it different. I installed the cable that operates perfectly when the trans is in D (about the middle of the shift pattern)

Then if the cable vs trans ratio/length isn't precisly as it should be the result of the wrong ratio/length won't have a big effect on the driving conditions and therefore the trans will slipp less if not at all.

Hope this makes some sense to you... if not maybe someone else can give you a better discription... I can't
Hans (72challenger)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Luke (Luke) » 23 Jul 2002 15:33

that sounds like the neutral safety switch you might find if you hold it hard in park it'll start, if not adjust the gear selector linkage. the other trouble could be the ballast resistor.
Luke (Luke)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Dave-R (Roppa440) » 23 Jul 2002 15:56

Your coil will run hot like this and possibly fail. You have to run with a ballast resistor in series with the coil. It sounds to me like you have the wires mixed up at the ballast resistor. Read my thread on ballast resistors in this electrical section.

The other problem will be the adjustment on the gear selector. The aftermarket parts suppliers in the USA have been turning out a lot of crap the last few years. I have lost count of the number of 'bolt on' replacement parts I have had to modify to get to work properly. Too much stuff made in China and Mexico eh?
My shifter took a lot of adjustment 'tweaks' to get right. But even now it will still fail to start in 'Park' now and again. But usually only when someone is watching me and I am trying to look cool....
Dave-R (Roppa440)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Nick Spano (74chall) » 23 Jul 2002 18:01

Just tried switching the wires on the ballast resistor. Still did the same thing. I crank the motor it starts , but as soon as i let off cranking it dies. Any other ideas? Thanks for the help with the neutral saftey switch, im going to have to play with that this weekend when i can get use of a lift.
Nick Spano (74chall)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Craig (Craigdansky) » 23 Jul 2002 18:05

The problem you are having with the motor killing after letting off the key sounds like you have a bad ballest resistor. I have had the problem in the past and replacing the ballest resistor has solved the problem. GOOD LUCK
Craig (Craigdansky)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Dave-R (Roppa440) » 23 Jul 2002 18:13

Craig is right. Check for open circuit over the resistor.

When you are cranking the battery is connected directly to the coil. When you let go the switch the battery is connected to the coil through the resistor.
Dave-R (Roppa440)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Nick Spano (74chall) » 24 Jul 2002 23:21

Hey guys. I replaced the ballast resistor today , and the car still does not stay running! So I procceeded to think of other things that could be wrong. The ignition switch ! So i ripped the steering wheel off and then the spacer piece
( about a half foot long) , removed the blinker assembly ( with all the wires ,etc)and now im stuck. I cannot get the next spacer piece off to allow me to the ignition switch.. Does anyone know how to remove this part. Does anyone have any other suggestions why my car does not stay running after I let off cranking the motor. Its deff. not the ballast, I WISH IT WAS!Thanks for your help . Nick
Nick Spano (74chall)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Douglas Little (Dlittle) » 25 Jul 2002 10:50

I had a problem like this once. There was power to the coil with the switch on (not start position) and the engine dies when you let off the starter. In my case it was a bad high tension wire fron the distributor to the coil. It allow the power to bleed off just enough to kill the engine especially when wet. Too simple to be believed.
Douglas Little (Dlittle)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Dave-R (Roppa440) » 25 Jul 2002 11:02

You are best tracing the fault with a meter that reads volts and ohms rather than just taking everything apart and trying stuff at random. I realise that not everyone can do this but it is fun to learn this stuff yes? A simple ohms reading of the ballast resistor would have told you it was fine without removing it.

Find a circuit diagram and check the wire coming from the 'run' position on the ignition switch is live when the switch is in the position. I think (from memory mind!) it comes through the bulkhead in that big mess of connectors at the back of the fuse box. It might even just be a bad connection there.
Dave-R (Roppa440)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Nick Spano (74chall) » 25 Jul 2002 16:49

I found the problem area! Now its fixing it! Its's the wiring harness on the firewall by the brake booster. I went under the hood and wiggled all the wires and just for Sh*ts and giggles I tried staring it , and it fired up. I tried it again and it didnt start. I had the car running again then wiggled the harness and the car died. So i put some termial grease in the harness , but it still gets a bad connection. Sould I buy a new engine harness?Thanks , Nick
Nick Spano (74chall)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Dave-R (Roppa440) » 25 Jul 2002 19:09

That is the possible bad connection I was telling you about. Those connectors on the firewall are on the back of the fusebox. If you had a volt meter you would have found zero volts at the ballast resistor but 12 volts at the connector on the back of the fuse box. That would have shown you the fault straight away.

Try cleaning the metal on the contacts until you have bright metal. Then spray with WD40 or any light oil and try again. You don't want this failing at high speed on a tight bend if you have power steering and brakes!

If you still have a bad connection or are worried about it I think your best bet would be to buy a new engine harness.
Dave-R (Roppa440)
 

Ignition troubles

Postby Nick Spano (74chall) » 26 Jul 2002 2:27

I found the faulty wire, it was acutally broke off , so i soddered the wire back into the terminal.If it gives me any more problems I will be replacing the harness. Thanks a lot everyone for your help ! Nick
Nick Spano (74chall)