[Steve R (Rizrtse)]

Ok dave, just let me know when you have had enough of my issues. Here is one that hit me today, 200 miles after a ground up restoration on my 70RTSE. I noticed my turn signal indicators on the dash were moving erratically and rapidly. In addition, I was told my brake lights weren't working. After replacing a burnt fuse the rear right side worked when brakes were applied and turn signal flashed - but not the left. Front signals work fine. Must be a ground problem, turn signal problem, or a short? But why do both back lights work, but the left side does not activate (get brighter)when the brakes are applied nor does it flash when the directional is applied? No issues whatsoever on the right rear side. Same harness obviously, go figure? On top of that my fuel gauge went flat today as well but that seems to be a grounding problem as well. Gauge is fine, new sending unit. Worked fine for the first 200 miles! P.S.Correct bulbs are installed. Any clues would be helpful. Steve, NY

[Ted S (Teds)]

or a bad turn signal switch.

ted in albany ny

[Steve R (Rizrtse)]

Who carries one of those?

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

My money is on bad grounds. Go around the car and make sure all the bulb holders are making good clean metal-to-metal contact with the bodywork in those rear lights. I find the front indicators are often a problem too and ended up running a separate grond wire from them to the body.

[Steve R (Rizrtse)]

Thanks guys. Wife is ready to strangle me here in NY on Easter Sunday trying to cure this issue. I agree its a bad ground. It can't be coincidental that this problem occurred right after I removed the left and center light panels for cleaning. I am not sure why you think body contact is needed here though since they are supposed to be shielded from the direct body with those foam gaskets right? If all else fails how did you ground the light system? Do you think their is a connection with my gas gauge going dead? The gauge is ok because we grounded it and it went to Full. I'm miserable right now. Thanks Dave.

[Tedd Lister (Teddl)]

Steve,

The foam gaskets are to keep out water. The contacts are likely by the connectors inside the trunk, at least that is how my 74' is. If I remember correctly, the backup lights have only one purple wire, thus the lens body has to be grounded for current path back to the battery. A test light or better yet volt/ohmmeter will be your best friend in finding these problems. The electricals to rear of the car are on one harness, including your gas gauge. They likely pulled that out to do your trunk and when put back it hurried it. Might also check the press in connectors themselves, they can get oxidized, wire brush them and the hole they go in as well. My Barracuda had that problem, easy fix.

Anytime you take a car completely apart, you run the chance of these types of problems. After some period, you should get the bugs worked out and life gets better. It is really best to solve frustating problems when you have plenty of time, so relax and do it right (I screw things up when in a hurry). Best of luck.
Tedd

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

The bulb holder grounds to the hole in the reflector. If I remember right the nuts that hold the lights into the body are supposed to complete the circuit. Newly painted cars are always like this. Make sure the fixings have a bit of bare metal under them.

[Steve R (Rizrtse)]

Thanks. I'll try anything. The bulb holders are new of course since the harness is as well. The bulb holders are seated nicely in the tailight holes, gas gauge wire is connected, right side lights work, so I'm still baffled as to why the left directional and brake lights do not. I get lights when I put the headlight switch on. Different circuit?

[Tedd Lister (Teddl)]

How about the rear tailights and side markers (not brake lights)? with your lights on? Not having brake lights could be the switch connected to the pedal, adjustment or failure. Poor adjustment could happen if someone disconnected the brakes to remove the master/booster, as most would do if painting the engine bay.

I think Daves suggestion about taking one nut off each side and exposing a small metal patch then putting the nuts back on would be wise, whether it is the problem or not. Could also take a hole file and expose metal in the hole too.

The gas gauge could be a ground as well, there should be a grounding strap, I believe. This is another one wire going to it, so it must be grounded at the unit to complete the circuit.

Tedd

[Steve R (Rizrtse)]

Again, the all lights work. Just the left rear tailight brake lights and left directional. Everything else flashes fine. The dash directional lights are very erratic. they flash quickly. The gas gauge sending unit wirks works off the same harness - it must all be related. I am going to remove all the marker lights and rear lights and reseat them although the sockets themselves are supposed to be the grounds. The brake light switch must be working since the right rear tailight brake light works fine. Thx Ted. any other thoughts?

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

The dash indicators will do that if a bulb has gone or if the ground circuit is not complete. It is right that the bulbs ground 'in the hole' but the light 'unit' has to also ground to the body. As this is a newly painted car you should also check that the engine earth strap and electronic ignition module (if fitted) are grounded well. Refere to the electrical section for instructions on how to check that).

I am moving this thread to the 'Electrical' section from 'General Chat' as it should have been started there.

[Tedd Lister (Teddl)]

Steve,

Usually the erratic (fast) turn signals are from the bulb or bad connection. Seems like you have isolated things to that one tailight, so concentrate on that guy until you are sure it make a good ground. If you are not getting good ground, your backup light on that side not work. Like Dave said, cars that are newly painted are prone to these problems, especially if the crew is in a hurry to button it up.
I would get a test light and check the connections while in operation. Just connect the alligator lead to a good piece of metal on the car and touch the probe to the connector with the bulb out of the socket. Might find that the connector itself is a bit corroded, scape off the flakes until you see good metal. Keep at it, you'll figure it out.
Tedd

[Steve R (Rizrtse)]

OK Ted wins the prize. It was a bad turn signal Cam. Replaced it and everything works ok. Looks like the fuel gauge is ok but the Year One new sending unit went bad after 100 miles. They are good however and will replace it asap. I think the float may have dislodged after a few hard gear changes! P.S. Be careful when buying a NOS turn signal. 70 is unique (like everything else it seems). A 70 -71 unit signal unit will work but the emergency flasher plastic is wider and needs to be trimmed a bit to work. I got an NOS one on ebay and it was for the later years. Year One carries a replacement that is correct.