The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Hi.
After aboat 1 year of standstill, I'm planning on installing my newly overhauled engine back in the car.....

I am really tired of mishaps, so I'm hoping some of you can confirm the fact that my converter is "bullet proof".

WRITTEN ON THE CONVERTER ;
B P59 884 A122 9639 B

It's a low stallspeed converter as I'm running ca 2.7:1 axel ratio, and 275/40R17.
STREET DRIVING, with a few tire smoking accelerations from time to time....
The engine was measured close to 1000 Nm of torque at 3200 RPM... on a dyno.
It feels as if the converter is "slipping" just a little bit when at WOT.
...kind of like it's stall speed is forced up to a higher RPM...

I don't need more performance,...I just want to be sure I don't end up with a broken converter in 2010....and now with the engine out, changing the converter is a easy task....

Naturally, the guy giving me this converter claimed it would last a lifetime......but was unwilling to provide more details....as I was claiming a warranty issue on the gearbox......

All help in determining what converter I have, is welcomed....

You don't say whether it is a factory converter or whether it is a BB or SB or what it was out of. The diameter is usually a good indication. Its quite common down here to use a SB 727 converter behind a BB, this automatically gives a higher stall. Did he provide any history of it? Chrysler made a huge array of converters with all different stall speeds and i don't think the service manual details the stall speed/application by part number, you might have to go to a part number book. But putting in a used converter behind a new huge torque engine like that ( i assume 440?) without any history of it might be risky. They all look good on the outside once cleaned!

I might not be inclined to trust that fellow too far if he is unwilling to guarantee it at all. Is the ring gear in very good condition?

I i was in your position, i would not buy that one, but would get another standard 440 converter and get it serviced. Which involves cutting open of course. Then they can also do some slight modifications to increase the stall, or change characteristics. I had that done with mine and it worked unbelievably well. At least then you can be happy knowing where you are once it is in. Its a big job to pull them out again!

Might not be the converter. It might be the trans.
You have enough line pressure?
Good clutch packs?
Bands adjusted?

It looks as if there are counterweights welded to the converter. You do not happen to know how much they weigh?
(The reason for asking is mostly to kill my curiousity...)

The car is is storage some distance from my house, so getting measurements will need to wait until after cristmas...

I assume the converter is for a 440, as I explained that I need low RPM stallspeed to the proffesional providing the converter...

The converter is supposed to be "new", or newly re-buildt.
727 is newly overhauled, and shifts flawlessly.
The company who did the re-build, and supplied the converter is big by Norwegian standards....
There is no feeling of "slippage" when engaging the GV overdrive....
( I know,....I'll need to change my rear ratio to better enjoy the OD)
...This leads me to believe that the clutches are OK........

It sort of feels normal that the stall increases as the RPM enters the sweet spot ???
Please note that the "slipping" is just minor,...I don't believe the acceleration is hurt..

My problem is that after I had the conflict with this company, (2 gearbox failures in 2 years) they don't want to tell me what they've done to upgrade the box, nor provide data for the converter.....
....but they claim the parts are OK....even when adding NOS....

....which I've tried just a few times...... and the 727 managed (but the engine did'nt)

Anyone with a suggested decoding ??...surey the numbers has a meaning?

johannes wrote:Anyone with a suggested decoding ??...surey the numbers has a meaning?

I am sure they mean something to the converter manufacturer. Like batch number, production date, production plant etc.

If they are original manufacturers codes and it has been rebuilt the numbers will be meaningless.

johannes wrote:My problem is that after I had the conflict with this company, (2 gearbox failures in 2 years) they don't want to tell me what they've done to upgrade the box, nor provide data for the converter.....

i hope they build converters better than they build TF's

The converter looks like what we call in the industry an 11" converter by looking at the width of the ring gear. As I recall, that ring gear will measure just about 1" from the top of the ring gear teeth to where it is welded to the body of the converter. A 12" converters ring gear will measure about 1/2".
The numbers on the converter are the factory numbers, and to the best of my knowledge have never been decoded by the aftermarket. Chrysler used both 11" and 12" converters behind all of their engines. I've seen 11" converters behind 318, 340, 360, 400, and 440 engines. The same can be said for the 12" converter. What you may be looking for is a 12" low stall converter, balanced to match your engine. Engines came with either a steel or cast iron crank, and the converters must be balanced accordingly.
Put the wrong converter in and you end up with a badly shaking car.
Are there weights on the engine side of the converter, and if there are, how many, what size, and what shape are they in. Factory weights are on the engine side of the converter.
From your picture, the converter hub (goes into the transmission pump)looks worn, and if the converter is rebuilt(????) they never replaced the hub. Remember, a converter is a sealed unit, and over the years, I've seen many REBUILT, "quote unquote", converters that had a new paint job and that was all that was done to it. Unless you know the company that does the rebuilding you never really know what has been done inside the unit.
Trying to find a bullet-proof converter will be very difficult, as any and all converters can and will break given the right circumstances. What you should look for is a converter that has been furnace brazed, has torrington bearings in it, and also has a steel stator inside. This would give you a very strong converter. The usual aftermarket converters would be at best built only to factory specifications. Good for normal replacement and slight engine improvements, but not much else. High horsepowered cars require the proper converter.
Send me a private email and I'll see if I can help you.
Please give me all the details you can about your engine, steel or cast iron crank, internally or externally balanced, camshaft specifications, the rear axle ratio, and what you will be doing with the car. All this helps get you the proper converter for your application.

transman [/b]

And i just want to add that Transman sorted out the perfect converter for me.

Thanks for the kind words Dave.
Glad to be of help.

Graham
AKA transman