[von]

I guess this is the right thread. Dave, did you use a spring location kit on your car? if you did what about your rear sway bar? you cant have it can you?

[dave-r]

No. Not a spring location kit. Just offset spring hangers. This moves the springs in by 3/4" each side. It has no effect on the rear sway bar.

You can just make it out in the photo if you look closely.

[Von (Von)]

Dave, with the offset spring hangers, how wide of a slick were you able to put on, and with what back spacing? I also need to have my rear sway bar. I can still have it cant I?

[Daver (Daver)]

My slicks are 28" tall. I can't remember how wide (old age!). I will have to check tonight. At least 10 inches though. In fact I am almost certain they are 10".

The wheels they are mounted on are the same wheels I use for my 295 wide BFG street tyres.

They are reproduction 15" Rallyes with a width of 10" and back spacing is 5.5". But again I will check tonight to be sure.

Just so that everyone knows what we are talking about here.

I re-located my rear springs in by 0.75 inches each side to make room for the large wheel/tyre combo I wanted. I also had to trim off and weld the wheel lips.

To move the springs I used off-set spring hangers from Mopar Performance.
The M.P. rear hangers for E-bodies are fine but the hangers for the front of each spring will not fit as they assume you are going to use the shorter Super Stock springs and not the standard length leaves.

To get around this you can use the off-set hangers for an A-body but you need to weld up the hole for the spring eye bolt and drill a new hole with a captive nut in the right place (use the existing hanger as a pattern).

Of course you have to also cut the spring mounts off the axle and weld new ones in place. Being careful to get the pinion angle correct at the same time.

Yes Von. Your rear sway bar will fit just fine on top of this modification.

[Daver (Daver)]

Just checked to be sure. Slicks are 28x10x15. Wheels have a 5.5 inch backspace.

[LITEMUP (Von)]

Ok, two questions; can I get a narrowed rear sway bar? And in the last post you mentioned your rear tire size, mine is 275/50/17 which is 11 inches wide, on a 9.5 rim w/ 5.5 backspacing. it will not fit under my wheelwells. Why?

[LITEMUP (Von)]

Oh, yes I did offset my springs with shackles and hangers.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Don't know. Mine do. Where are they hitting?

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Your sway bar must fit different to mine if you need a narrow one.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

I realise now if your sway bar fits with the ends on the axle and the bar fixed to the chassis then you will need a narrow bar.

I have the type (from pst) that the bar attaches to the axle and the ends to the chassis so moving the springs in has no effect.

If your existing sway bar needs narrowing to make up for the springs being moved you can have the ends of the sway bar bent in a bit. This will not effect the performance of the bar as long as you do not heat it. Check it on a flat surface after to make sure it is straight.

Thinking about the wheels, I am sure it is not because of different/years wheel arch size because I don't have a problem with my '70 and Freddie has 10X18 with 295/35/18 fitted under his '74 model.

You did read the bit where I said "I also had to trim off and weld the wheel lips" didn't you? Although I don't think Freddie needed to on his?

Maybe it is the diameter.

My street tyres are 26.6" diameter.
Freddies are 26" diameter.
Yours are 27.8 diameter.

I run a 28" slick on the strip ok but that is only 10" wide. Yours are 11" wide did you say?
So you have gone very tall and wide with this combo. VERY tight fit I would think even with the wheel lips removed.

[LITEMUP (Von)]

I am considering buying the kit that moves your springs 3 inches inboard; on the inside of your frame rail. Im fairly certain this will allow my wheel to fit in my wheelwell. However, I do not want to sacrifice my rear swaybar to do this. My swaybar fits with the offset shackles. But i dont think it will fit if i completely move my springs.

When I measured for my wheels, I wanted a 9.5 rim. so I measured for that. I didn't consider that my tire would be wider than my rim. so thats where my problem came in. Yes, I measured my tread width and it is 10" but the side wall is wider. So I estimated it is 11".

How much trouble is it to modify my wheel lips?

I am ok with cutting my inner fenderwells. there is a guy here that can do that. So all i need is to get my wheels to tuck under there and the rest is not a problem. I can get a narrowed axle to fit with the inboard springs but like I said I want my sway bar. this weekend I put a B-body housing and axles under there and it moved it in 3/4" in on each side but that wasn't enough. It still lacked just a little bit. I can put an A-body housing under there and I think it will work but not w/o moving my springs

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

The rear wheel lip is made from three? sheets of steel that come together to form the lip. All from different parts of the bodywork in that area.

So if you cut the lip off you need to weld along the cut edge to hold everything together. I left just a very small (< 0.25") lip and 'spot' welded along that. I would have seam welded but that would have burnt my paint off.

[LITEMUP (Von)]

I do beleive Dave that your sway bar and mine are different. If it wouldn't be much trouble could you post a pic so that I might see the difference? I might see about converting to the older style.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

I can't get hold of the digital camera to take a picture for a couple of weeks Von. However I can tell you that the bar came from Performance Suspension Technology (PST) and they have a web site at http://www.p-s-t.com

[Chase Rath (70wss)]

Dave what kind of rear springs are you running? I saw the thread about Year Ones Hemi springs being too long, I had planned to run those.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

I had mine made to my own spec by a local company.