The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Anyone that races their car or does burnouts in the street or on the track should read this.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... php?t=2167

Good read Dave. In my transmission class at tech school we studied the sprag and it's components. It looks eerily similar to a fragmentation grenade as far as the individual metal sections that come apart and leave a swarth of destruction. The stock OEM components arent designed for 18k RPM,(3x mainshaft speed). I would use H.D. parts at a minimum! Glad I have 4-speed with SFI components and billet flwheel also SFI! You automatic guys have way to many worries!

I thought the guy expained it really well and simply enough so that even I understood it at first read.

good article dave.i had a turbo action cheetah man. reverse vb fitted to my 904 which dosen,t have engine braking in first. its on a 340.i dont race the car but i like to have some fun every now and then if you know what i mean.i tend to pull to a stop in 2nd anyway.is this ok do you know

The key point in that article is you can only damage the sprag in 1st gear.

"Start your burnout in 2nd, and shift to 3rd. When on the street, repetitively getting in and out of the throttle while in 1st gear can damage the sprag."

thanks Dave.just been looking on the Turbo Action site and they do a manual valve body thats street friendly with breaking in all gears,stock shift pattern.part #17675.

i had my sprag go and i got out of it and saved my behind,thanks dave i didnt know the 1st gear thing good advice, the whole trans. twisted inside the case , what a bang, and clunk that was.

Go to my companies website www.tcsproducts.com
Click on the on-line-store button, go to MOPAR products and click on the 727 page. Scroll down to any of the direct drum pictures and click it on. Enlarge the photo. On this page we have posted the results we had from an independent test we did on these drums.

transman

Thanks transman! Great read and very informative as well as eye-opening! Looks like the TSC billet alloy alum drum is the ONLY way to go for high horsepower apps.

For you 727/904 guys here is an article that contains a great tip for increased durability using factory/aftermarket parts, and helps to keep that tranny "together" as long as a 4-speed! Check out those different spline angles.

Last page.

airfuelEddie wrote:For you 727/904 guys here is an article that contains a great tip for increased durability using factory/aftermarket parts, and helps to keep that tranny "together" as long as a 4-speed! Check out those different spline angles.

Intresting reading, Eddie. Thanks! It was new to me.

Thanks Christer. The scary part is, as the article states, it all slips together just fine, then the wrong angles serve as a perfect cutting tool then boom! Good to know if your contemplating using Heavy Duty Chrysler parts in your build-up!

airfuelEddie wrote:The scary part is, as the article states, it all slips together just fine, then the wrong angles serve as a perfect cutting tool then boom! Good to know if your contemplating using Heavy Duty Chrysler parts in your build-up!

I agree. It is all very treacherous. I would fall into that trap 11 times out of 10. I wonder why they have changed the slope of the splines? Was it mentioned in the article? Maybe the slope used nowadays is cheaper to produce?

I think it has something to do with the strength of the spline itself as the angle changed.

airfuelEddie wrote:I think it has something to do with the strength of the spline itself as the angle changed.

Maybe. Is there anyone who knows for sure?

The article states that the closer the angle of the spline becomes to a true radius,(which means a gentle curve much like a camshaft lobe), the stronger the shaft becomes. So Strength has to be the reason.