The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Hi,
Who can tell me what the purpose is, of the column lock linkage for a 1970 challenger four speed.
I know it locks the column, so you can only remove the key when in reverse........

But Why????

Thanks

Antoon

I didn't know it did that.

I can guess why. It is safer to leave a car parked in a low gear. Reverse is the lowest gear.

If that is not the correct answer then I am a bit stumped as to what it really is for.

And what if some kid gets in the car and accidentaly starts it? Then the car is in reverse and will start to move?

How does this linkage work on an automatic car?

Antoon

The "kid" would have to be able to push down on the clutch on a four speed car. On an automatic transmission equipped car can the car be started in anything other than park?

Thedeputy wrote:And what if some kid gets in the car and accidentaly starts it? Then the car is in reverse and will start to move?

How does this linkage work on an automatic car?

Antoon

What if it is in ANY gear?

That is why on a manual car you ALWAYS check that the gears are in neutral (part of the UK driving test) and depress the clutch anyway (best practice) before turning the key.

On an automatic the car will only start in Park or Neutral. A saftey switch on the transmission kills power to the starter relay in any other position.

So the automatic car would inherently be more "dangerous"? Since the child wouldn't have to "depress" anything? I told him if he could start it then he could drive it down the road! He couldn't reach the pedal and fully depress the neutral safety switch. Ha keep dreaming kid!

In my car there is no clutch safety switch.
And why this elaborate system of rods and shafts? Why not only a steering wheel lock-up when the key is removed?
Or could it be an extra safety, when your car is on a slope that it's always parked in reverse. that way it won't go anywhere in case the parking brake fails.

I've also learned to always start a manual car in neutral without the clutch depressed. That way the gear oil gets thrown around the gears before you drive away.

Antoon

All good and logical points but I think the Government had something to do with it. Like the "goofy" Govt. mandated front 5 MPH bumpers that where outfitted to the U.S. cars of the mid to late seventies, man those things were ugly and looked only proper on a Dodge PowerWagon Truck!

THat's funny, I was wondering the same thing about my convertible (auto on the floor) last week, when one of the friends helping me putting the engine back in constantly banged his head on the (useless) linkage coming down from the column.

It has been blocked by a previous owner so that I don't have to do anything to remove the key from the ignition lock, but I'm wondering, snce some of my friends have to turn a ring around the column to do this (not 1970 models though). Or was the column replaced by one coming out of a column-shifted model?

Thedeputy wrote:I've also learned to always start a manual car in neutral without the clutch depressed. That way the gear oil gets thrown around the gears before you drive away.

Antoon

Start it with the clutch depressed for safety but once fired up you bring the clutch up while it is still in neutral.

That way if it is accidently in gear you will feel it and react as you lift the clutch up. Once up it will do the oil thing you talk about although I think that is nonsense.

It will however bring the gears up to idle speed so you can engage 1st or reverse gears which often do not have any syncromesh.
THAT is the reason you engage the clutch in neutral.

I have been driving (officially ) for 30 years. I have been starting manual cars like this for the last 20 years.

Want to guess why I suddenly changed after ten years?

Sounds resonable that the government had a say in this issue.

I will follow your advice with the clutch/start issue. Anybody got a spare clutch safety switch??

Antoon

Thedeputy wrote:Sounds resonable that the government had a say in this issue.

I will follow your advice with the clutch/start issue. Anybody got a spare clutch safety switch??

Antoon

Funny thing is, govenments usually don't go back with that kind of issues, and European countries tend to take the same measures after a while. But even today, there is no mandatory neutral safety whatsoever on cars here.

It can be a big issue over here. It's hard to, start your vehicle, dial up your i-pod, apply the make-up on your face, eat your 3/4 Lb. Triple Fat burger, wrestle with your welfare food stamps, yell at the kid, while pulling out of your govt. subsidised trailer park, all at the same time! Jeep just went through this a few years ago on their transmission and gear selector.

I would think the reverse lock is an anti-theft device. Someone driving a stolen car around stuck in reverse would be pretty obvious, and wouldn't get too far. (My dad's 70 El Camino had the same feature.)

Recently reconnected the clutch pedel start switch on my 70 after many years using the neutral technique. Now wondering about depressing the clutch while starting with a "dry" thrust bearing surface against the #3 main journal.

The clutch would only put pressure on the crank when engaged wouldn't it???

When disengaging the clutch the pressure on the diaphram or fingers transfers to the flywheel which is bolted to the crank. This crankshaft pressure is then transfered to the engine block thru the #3 main bearing. (Thrust bearing)

My car came with an aftermarket Lakewood bellhousing and the previous owner did not have it properly indexed between the trans and the engine block. The miss alignment caused the clutch to be very difficult to depress. End result was a ruined thrust bearing and an engine overhaul.

That experience made me more aware of the potential impacts of using heavily sprug racing clutches and the issue I mentioned on start-up.

Crickey!

I never did find out how my (quite new) thrust bearing wore completely away within a few thousand miles. On my AUTOMATIC trans.

But I do suspect something was up with the convertor.

I guess there is not enough pressure in a 2000cc or less Euro clutch because I have never had thrust wear on these engines.

The main reason for the column lock is to lock your steering wheel in place. It is an early atempt at an anti theft device. I haven't tried it for a long time (all cars over in the colinies have this), so it becomes second nature to not even think about this feature. With this locked (and I may stand to be corrected) you cannot turn your steering wheel.

transman

dave-r wrote:Crickey!

I never did find out how my (quite new) thrust bearing wore completely away within a few thousand miles. On my AUTOMATIC trans.

But I do suspect something was up with the convertor.

I guess there is not enough pressure in a 2000cc or less Euro clutch because I have never had thrust wear on these engines.

Dave, I think you are just making too much horsepower in that Chally. 11 second 1/4's in a streetable machine are out of my relm.

Dave.
If you lost your thrust bearings, the most probable cause is a poorly finished surface the thrust side of the bearing rides on(on the crankshaft). Most engine shops do an adequate job on finishing this, but some do not, as this is a difficult procedure. If that surface is does not have a mirror finish, your thrust bearings will wipe out very quickly. If your converter caused the problem, the converter would have to have balooned (usually caused by EXCESSIVE trans oil pressure, and this typically can cause the crank thrust bearings to wipe out, and will also wipe out the pump in the trans, as the converter will baloon in both directions. I've got about a 7 or 8 page report on this at work from a neutral source, and if you so wish, I'd be happy to mail it to you.
transman

That's OK Transman. I take in every word you tell me.

I can't wait to try that convertor you sold me.