Dodge Challenger 340: broken rear
 Posted: 13 Mar 2006 17:04
Posted: 13 Mar 2006 17:04Hey, I was driving around in my 70 challenger 340 the other day when I started hearing loud snaps in the rear on turns and even while giving it gas in  a straight line. I added posi additive concentrate with no luck, im pretty sure that the posi is shot or possibly one of the gears. Anyway, while I was back there I figured i'd give the car some much needed gear. It runs 3.91's now and its just flat out not enough gear for this little 340. Im just wondering what you guys would recommend. I dont drive the car that often, maybe once ever few weekends and hardly any of my driving is highway. If I do get on the highway, it is for no more than 10 minutes and its very rare.  I just want the car to be fast. They closed the only track here on Long island, NY so I have no way to tell how fast the car is, but I think it was or should have been in the low 13's or high 12's. Thats just not enough anymore, can't stand the idea of getting smoked by stock 06 vettes and slighly modded STI's and Evo's....
 
 
here are my motor specs
69 340
balanced rotating assembly
bored .030 over
speed pro pistons (I want to say 9.5:1 compression but im not exactly sure)
Eagle forged rods
comp exhaust valves and valve springs
3 angle valve job
edelbrock performer duel plane manifold
holly 670cfm street avenger carb
hooker super comp long tube headers
MSD 6al
Freddy Brown built 727 tranny with manual valve body/shift kit
Here are the comp cam specs: intake lift: .480/ Exhaust: .480
230/230 duration at .050
Grind: CRS 280h-10
My boss at the speed shop I work for, who is also the guy who built the motor thinks 4.88's would be good for my application. When we can finally get it to the track in jersey, 4.88's and a higher stall (right now it only has a 2300) might be enough to get it into the low 12's (?) which I would be very happy with. My only problem is that I plan to run nitrous in the future and I don't want to run out of gear on the spray. On the other hand, I also want the car to run as best as it could N/A, as that is how i'd be driving it 90% of the time. Im using M/T L60 I tread sportsmans right now. I think they are about 28" in diamter. I guess I would go with a similar sized slick.
thanks!
			 
 
here are my motor specs
69 340
balanced rotating assembly
bored .030 over
speed pro pistons (I want to say 9.5:1 compression but im not exactly sure)
Eagle forged rods
comp exhaust valves and valve springs
3 angle valve job
edelbrock performer duel plane manifold
holly 670cfm street avenger carb
hooker super comp long tube headers
MSD 6al
Freddy Brown built 727 tranny with manual valve body/shift kit
Here are the comp cam specs: intake lift: .480/ Exhaust: .480
230/230 duration at .050
Grind: CRS 280h-10
My boss at the speed shop I work for, who is also the guy who built the motor thinks 4.88's would be good for my application. When we can finally get it to the track in jersey, 4.88's and a higher stall (right now it only has a 2300) might be enough to get it into the low 12's (?) which I would be very happy with. My only problem is that I plan to run nitrous in the future and I don't want to run out of gear on the spray. On the other hand, I also want the car to run as best as it could N/A, as that is how i'd be driving it 90% of the time. Im using M/T L60 I tread sportsmans right now. I think they are about 28" in diamter. I guess I would go with a similar sized slick.
thanks!
 Where to start?
  Where to start?  
 
 I told him I had no intention of going back into the motor for a third time, and at this point, with the brand new motor and everything running great i'd rather just spray it. Shes got a forged crank from a 69 340, Eagle I beam 4340 rods and SRP forged pistons so I think a 125 shot would be safe.  The ultimate goal was actually deep into the 11's, but my boss told me to use a 29" or 30" slick for the track. With a 29" slick we're looking at a top speed of about 123@6700 rpm's. That should be enough, but I also know the converter has a lot to do with it as well. If we raced it on N20, it wouldn't be often at all, and I trust that the engine was built and machined very well (machinist actually worked for Sox and Martin) so I wouldn't mind revving it to 6700 once in a blue moon.
 I told him I had no intention of going back into the motor for a third time, and at this point, with the brand new motor and everything running great i'd rather just spray it. Shes got a forged crank from a 69 340, Eagle I beam 4340 rods and SRP forged pistons so I think a 125 shot would be safe.  The ultimate goal was actually deep into the 11's, but my boss told me to use a 29" or 30" slick for the track. With a 29" slick we're looking at a top speed of about 123@6700 rpm's. That should be enough, but I also know the converter has a lot to do with it as well. If we raced it on N20, it wouldn't be often at all, and I trust that the engine was built and machined very well (machinist actually worked for Sox and Martin) so I wouldn't mind revving it to 6700 once in a blue moon.