The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Can someone PLEASE tell me how to get a part number or how to get a replacement seal. when taking my motor out, i unhooked the kickdown linkage(I have the single rod) but it got hung on the block. I didn't realize it and it streached the rod and warped the seal that the valve body goes up through.the one where the gear select and the kick down lever goes up through. any advice? the parts stores have no record of it but if they had a part number and what brand the part number is (Like federal-mogul) they can cross it.

Is this the seal you want Von?



I don't have a part number (mine came in the re-build kit) but it might help someone identify it.

yeah, thats it. one came in my kit also, but when I was taking my motor out I screwed it up. I warped it. and now it wont hold fluid.

There are two seals in that area of the valve body. One is call the throttle shaft seal and is just shade over 5/8" in outside diameter. It is an all rubber seal. Chrysler part number on this item is 2466548.
The other seal is a seal they call the Manual control shaft seal. It measures 1 1/4" in outside diameter, and is what we in the trade call a metal clad seal. Chrysler part number 2466842.
My Chrysler numbers may not be up to date, as the book I have is not a current one.
Hope this helps.

Von. I should have mentioned that I have the seals you need if you can't find any.
Just let me know.

My local O'Reilly's is very good to me and I'll see if they cant cross these numbers. If they can't I will definately let you know cause I for sure need them.

alright Graham, this stupid thing is still leaking after putting in the new seal! Now what? I want this fixed before putting it back in my car.

Could you have bent the part that goes through the seal so that it is pushing the seal over to one side a bit?

Von. A couple of areas I want you to look at.
There are as you know, two seals, the small rubber throttle lever seal, and the manual control shaft seal. Refer to Daves' photo. The small rubber seal goes under the washer that is held in place by the e-clip. Install this seal so the grove it has is facing up.

The other seal that goes into the case, must have the metal face up. Check your installation, and make sure the spring inside the seal has not flipped off ( a common mistake ). Pack this seal with vasoline and the spring should stay in place.
Last but not least, make sure that the selector lever shaft is not worn. Take some 400 grit or finer emery paper and LIGHTLY sand the shaft the seal rides on. Put a little trans oil on the seals before installation. Use a 1 inch socket on top of the manual control shaft seal and lightly tap it into the case.
Hope this helps.

Von. Did you cure your seal leak problem?

NO I didn't! And dont get me started. (Not really)It got cold here again so I haven't wanted to mess with it. But it is still leaking. My next thing to do is pull the valve body and use some emery paper as you said. Thats the only thing left to do.

this looks like my personal thread. haha...alright graham, i need some help. fluid is pouring out of the bellhoushing when it gets warmed up. i changed the front seal but it still leaks. no vibrations, goes into gear fine, shifts fine, can it be the pump maybe? or the converter? i inspected the converter and it looked fine to me. i really dont know what else to do.

Well Von if the leak is coming out of the front past the converter, the areas of concern are
Front pump Seal
Pump Bushing
Converter hub
Pump Gasket
Pump O Ring

The converter hub must be mirror smooth, no groves, no nicks.
The same holds true for the bushing in the pump the converter hub rides on.
Always pack the back side of the pump seal with vaseoline. This helps prevent the garter spring in the seal from popping out.
A good general rule of thumb is any time you replace the pump seal, also replace the pump gasket and the pump O Ring.
Good luck.
Graham

alright, a new seal, a new bushing, a gasket and a square cornered o ring are going in this pump now...should i get some emory cloth and smooth up the converter?

Ideally what you want to do is put the converter in a lathe and spin it, polishing the hub with no. 400 grit emery cloth.
This produces a mirror like finish on the hub.

Hope this helps

Graham