[LITEMUP (Von)]

I just finished rebuilding my 727. It was twice as easy as I thought it would be. I tore it completely apart and put it back together. The B&M book was a piece of cake to read. I even had fun learning about it. Just a bit of encouragement to those contemplating trying to do it. I'm 17; if I can do it I know somebody else can.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Well done Von.

That is just how I felt when I did mine. I did find the detailed drawings in the workshop manual a good help alongside the B&M manual. Not looking at the workshop manual lead to me missing putting the seal around the rear piston. It slipped like hell in gear after but the B&M fault finding bit helped me realise what I had done.

[Hans (72challenger)]

Which rebuilt kit did you guys used? I want to rebuilt mine also this winter so I was looking at two different kits; the B&M transPAK & transKIT.

With the transpak you can chose between RV/Street strip/full comp while the transkit includes all the parts used in a B&M street/strip transmission. Does this mean that the transKIT includes the parts of the transPAK street/strip and more... looking at the price I would say the KIT contains more/better parts then comparing to the PAK.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

TransKIT is the one you want for a total rebuild. The transpak is just a few valvebody bits and is included in the Transkit. Hence the difference in price.

[LITEMUP (Von)]

the instructions are great also

[Hans (72challenger)]

Well thanks guys, I will give it a try!

[Jarek Szepietowski (Yaro)]

Hi
Do you have any helpful tips how to remove and exchange from 727 gearbox rubber seal and bushing from rear extension?
Do I need any special tools, is it possible to do this without removing the gearbox from the car?
Yaro

[LITEMUP (Von)]

you will have to rephrase your question. to pull the rear extension off you have to gut the tranny(i think) because the shaft goes into the "small band". i maybe wrong though. you MIGHT be able to take the rear housing off but keep the shaft attached by taking the small plate off on the underside of the tranny and getting external snap ring pliers and spreading the ring apart and pulling it off. im not sure. tell me again

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Ooops! I forgot to reply to this one.

Von is correct but here it is in more detail.

I think I am right to say the end rubber seal just knocks in and out with the prop shaft removed.

The bush you have to remove the extension by removing the speedo drive gear, remove the trans crossmember.

This next bit is important.
You must put the gearbox in 1st gear. This is so you can disengage the parking lock rod with the sprag when you get the housing back far enough in the next step.

Then remove the extension mounting bolts and the plate on the bottom mounting pad. Reach in with a pair of circlip (snap ring) pliers and spead your ring(!) Keep it apart and you should be able to work the extension housing rearward and disengage that rod. It should then just slide off?

Might be a good idea to drain the fluid out first too.

[Bryan Eidins (Bryan)]

"work the extension housing rearward and disengage that rod" while spreading your ring!

ooer missus

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Where can one get the B&M manual?

Mine has a broken 1st/reverse band, but I don't think I hve the special tools for the rebuild.

I'm really good at taking things apart, but....

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

You don't need special tools mate. The manual comes with the kit. You can also get an optional video.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Dave_R

It looks like the kit doesn't have the 1st reverse band. Their master revuild kit is onoly for GM.

I have saved the $500 the local trans shop guy wants to rebuild (this tranny came from a Chicago tranny firm, so it's been re-built once).

What should I ask for/about when getting this job started?

Thanks for your help...

[Hans (72challenger)]

The transkit contains the following: (don't ask me what it is, it's just said on the instruction add.)
- forward clutches (rear clutch) 4ea.
- forward steels 4ea.
- direct clutches (front clutch) 5ea.
- direct steels 4ea.
- intermediate band (kickdown band)
- rear band 1ea.

But if I look in the box it contains a couple of things more...

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

It contains everything you need and more. Trust me. All the clutches and springs to bring you up to hemi spec, all the seals, all the bands, everything. I have done mine myself. I had never done an auto trans before. It was the most satisfying thing I have ever done.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Okay, Dave.. I'm ordering the the Transkit, and my brother is going to come over and help, for some $$$.

"I had never done an auto trans before."

Hope you didn't leave anything out like:

"oh, and I have a Masters in Mechanical Engineering..."

[LITEMUP (Von)]

im 17 years old and i did it. im sure you can.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Okay LITEMUP, TransKit on order.

Any bushings in the kit? My tail housing
main bushing is shot. Get from Mopar??

[LITEMUP (Von)]

no; there arent any bushings in the kit. if you are talking about the end play, mine was fine and I did not have to make adjustments. Dave, can you anser this better?

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

No bushing in the kit. I need to replace mine so if anyone can tell me how it comes out of the tail housing and where to get one I would be grateful.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

I need to clarify. I must be talking about the end housing output shaft oil seal- so oil won't leak out the back of the tranny. Is that a bushing?

I got my kit yesterday and there is a painted-red
seal of some sort. Looks/size of the outer axel housing dust/oil seal. No reference to it in the instructions.

Looking at the B&M instructions against the Mopar 73 Chall shop manual, I think I'm getting way too deep!

Dave_R: The manual has a section on the rear bushing replacement. Want me to scan and send?
It requires a special Mopar tool...

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

In that case it must be in my 1970 manual as well and I missed it. I will look and let you know if I need it. Thanks. I can't remember but I suspect you get both the input and output seals in the kit. Yes they are just oil seals. Don't be put off by the instructions. It all becomes clear as you go. By the time you have put it together you will wonder why you were worried in the first place. Just store each section carefully as you take it apart.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Dave_R:

"You can also get an optional video"

Who makes it? I called B&M, but they don't...

TIA

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

Sorry. I was sure that I read once that they did.

Not to worry. You don't need it. Get stuck in!

[John P (Blue)]

Any good auto trans parts supplier should be able to source an extension housing bush. Mine came from ATP in Hayes (02088489911)
I found a socket with a fractionally smaller OD than the bush, and pressed it out on a hydralic press, it came out no problem, but you need to be careful as it is fairly thin, don't be tempted to hammer 'em out!

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

Thanks Blue. I might give it a try over the winter. Don't know if my 'hydraulic press' will work of not. I use a jack placed on its side in the doorframe at the back of the garage!

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Looks like tomorrow (10-25) is T-day!!

Any last minute suggestions?

I'm going to soak the paper clutches over-nite, and I have 2x4 and 3/8 threaded lenghts to pull the pump, etc...

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

You sound pretty organised to me. Don't worry about the bits the instructions tell you to discard. They really do mean throw them away (but keep them safe someplace until you are finished and have tested it - just in case!).

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Thanks, Dave.

Any comments why they say to use type F fluid instead of the Mopar (manual) Dextron spec?

[Dave_R (Roppa440)]

Maybe something to do with getting the right pressure or viscosity to go with the modifications?