[Gary Parker (Brokenshifte]

F type fluid is for Fords and it contains a friction additive. A gritty substance, designed to help the steel plates and composite plates lock up. I don't recommend using it in mopar trannys.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

But they supply the steel and composite plates in the kit so maybe they think this fluid is better for the components they supply? I have heard other people say they use the type F fluid if they want a firmer shift without any (aparent?) deprimental effect to the trans.

If your experiance of this is different please let us know because we are just beginers!

[Luke (Luke)]

Has anyone used the 5.0 leaver in there box, I've herd good and bad news about them whats your opin'ion.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

The instructions said fit it so I did. It just controls how fast the front servo works (and applies the band). You want it to work fast otherwise there will be a delay between shifts (if I remember right). I don't think it effects how hard it applies. Just how fast. Is that right?

[Luke (Luke)]

something to that efect,does your box change better between first and second than second to third.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

No. And I don't see why it would. I can't remember now how the trans works without reading up on it but isn't the primary function of this lever to apply the kickdown band??

Anyway. Don't listen to gossip. I know many, many people that have used the B&M kit and they do not report funny shifts or any other problem that I can think of. I certainly do not have any complaints about it or have had any problems that were not caused by myself not doing something right.

[Graham Shortreed (Transma]

To try and help clear the confusion some are having about fluids, Chryslet uses dextron fluid.
You can use type F, and the shifts will be a little firmer. I've been told B&M Trickshift is type F with a blue dye in it.
There are only 2 or 3 major manufactuers of friction plates. Raybestos, Borg Warner, and a company called Alto. Raybestos are the OEM supplier to Chrysler. There are however different types of friction lining material available. Smooth, waffle (friction material looks like a waffle), and a lined (plate has a series of single lines cut across the friction material). A stock 727 uses a waffled friction for the front (high reverse) clutch pack and a dark smooth metalic friction for the rear or forward pack.
Hope this helps

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

If I remember right the B&M friction plates in my kit were all the type with the single lines across.

[LITEMUP (Von)]

mine also. My tranny shifts better by itself from first to second but better manually from second to third

[Graham Shortreed (Transma]

The plates I spoke of are the stock OEM Chrysler plates. Both Borg Warner and Raybestos make heavier duty plates. If you want a real firm almost rough shift, use the waffle lined plates in both clutch packs. You can also use a red plate from Alto that is used in racing applications. Raybestos also makes a high performance blue plate. Both plates are smooth, although I have seen the blue plates with the lines pressed into them. Your friction material is the most important part of you friction plate, not necessarily whether it has a smooth surface or one that is lined. My boss'es race car puts out about 1200 Dyno'd horsepower, and he runs it to a two speed race powerglide. The frictions used in that transmission are a smooth finished plate, and he gets typically 1 race season on a set of clutches.
By the way Dave, B&M do not manufacture any friction plates. Every kit I've looked at, the plates are either manufactured by Borg Warner or Raybestos, even if they are bagged and the bag is marked B&M. Private labelling is very common if you are a big enough buyer of a product. We manfacture an aluminum direct drum for the HEMI and now the 904 for the racing boys, and have put the logo and name of a noted Chrysler performance aftermarket parts distributor on them.