The Dodge Challenger Message Board

F type fluid is for Fords and it contains a friction additive. A gritty substance, designed to help the steel plates and composite plates lock up. I don't recommend using it in mopar trannys.

But they supply the steel and composite plates in the kit so maybe they think this fluid is better for the components they supply? I have heard other people say they use the type F fluid if they want a firmer shift without any (aparent?) deprimental effect to the trans.

If your experiance of this is different please let us know because we are just beginers!

Has anyone used the 5.0 leaver in there box, I've herd good and bad news about them whats your opin'ion.

The instructions said fit it so I did. It just controls how fast the front servo works (and applies the band). You want it to work fast otherwise there will be a delay between shifts (if I remember right). I don't think it effects how hard it applies. Just how fast. Is that right?

something to that efect,does your box change better between first and second than second to third.

No. And I don't see why it would. I can't remember now how the trans works without reading up on it but isn't the primary function of this lever to apply the kickdown band??

Anyway. Don't listen to gossip. I know many, many people that have used the B&M kit and they do not report funny shifts or any other problem that I can think of. I certainly do not have any complaints about it or have had any problems that were not caused by myself not doing something right.

To try and help clear the confusion some are having about fluids, Chryslet uses dextron fluid.
You can use type F, and the shifts will be a little firmer. I've been told B&M Trickshift is type F with a blue dye in it.
There are only 2 or 3 major manufactuers of friction plates. Raybestos, Borg Warner, and a company called Alto. Raybestos are the OEM supplier to Chrysler. There are however different types of friction lining material available. Smooth, waffle (friction material looks like a waffle), and a lined (plate has a series of single lines cut across the friction material). A stock 727 uses a waffled friction for the front (high reverse) clutch pack and a dark smooth metalic friction for the rear or forward pack.
Hope this helps

If I remember right the B&M friction plates in my kit were all the type with the single lines across.

mine also. My tranny shifts better by itself from first to second but better manually from second to third

The plates I spoke of are the stock OEM Chrysler plates. Both Borg Warner and Raybestos make heavier duty plates. If you want a real firm almost rough shift, use the waffle lined plates in both clutch packs. You can also use a red plate from Alto that is used in racing applications. Raybestos also makes a high performance blue plate. Both plates are smooth, although I have seen the blue plates with the lines pressed into them. Your friction material is the most important part of you friction plate, not necessarily whether it has a smooth surface or one that is lined. My boss'es race car puts out about 1200 Dyno'd horsepower, and he runs it to a two speed race powerglide. The frictions used in that transmission are a smooth finished plate, and he gets typically 1 race season on a set of clutches.
By the way Dave, B&M do not manufacture any friction plates. Every kit I've looked at, the plates are either manufactured by Borg Warner or Raybestos, even if they are bagged and the bag is marked B&M. Private labelling is very common if you are a big enough buyer of a product. We manfacture an aluminum direct drum for the HEMI and now the 904 for the racing boys, and have put the logo and name of a noted Chrysler performance aftermarket parts distributor on them.