[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

I have a slap-stick (console mount) for a 727A. When I replaced the transmission, from a mail order house several years ago, I found that I could not engage both "park" and 1st gear. I did specify the console version. Finally years later, this tranny has also gone away.

I have been looking at the Summit TCI series and they say to specify application. Apparently, there is a column version and a console version.

Question: What is the physical difference between the two? How can I be sure I have the right one before breaking my back putting it in?

TIA!

Doug

[Ted S (Teds)]

not sure, but the TCI trannys are pure junk.

[John P (Blue)]

There is no difference that I can think of on the transmission itself, I don't understand why Summit would need to know if it was column or console shift, as any Torqueflite I have seen has the necessary "lugs" to bolt your shifter brackets to for either application. Maybe there are transmissions out there that do not have all the "lugs" on them?

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Ted, can you elaborate?

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

You replace transmissions every time you think one is getting a little worn? Wow.

There is no internal difference between the two types at all. The only difference is in the linkages. There is only one part I can think of that would effect the length of the throw on the shifter handel and that is the selector lever that twists the vertical shaft that sticks up out of the trans. You know the one? The lever under the kickdown throttle pressure lever that is held on with a pinch bolt.

The length of that will determin how far you have to move the shifter lever to get each gear.

[Johnny D (Johnnyd)]

I have swapped out column & console shifted transmissions and never ran into a problem with the linkage. Have I just been lucky? or is Doug just un-lucky?

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

I can tell you that I had great trouble getting the adjustment right on mine when I fitted the Hurst shifter. You get a new selector lever with the kit but it took me a few attempts to get it right. Even now I sometimes find it will not start in 'Park' and I have to shift to neutral to get started. It doesn't happen often enough for me to wory about it.

[Ted S (Teds)]

I purchased a TCI Street Fighter tranny from Sumitt
Racing in 1995 for my 70 440 R/T . After about 100
miles I didn't have third gear, then I lost second while trying to get home. I called TCI, they told be it had to be sent to them in Alabama, I live in Albany NY, at my cost, about 150 for truck freight.
I sent it to them in June, got it back in November.
reinstalled i the folowing spring and it had no 1st gear or reverse. They said send it back again at my cost, I told them to stick it .... > I had a local tranny shop fix it,cost me 424 bucks, the clutch pack was basicly in the pan, I was told all I had was a junk yard tranny with a shift kit in it. It was know been drove 12,000 miles with no more problems.

[Ted S (Teds)]

TCI is Total Crap Inc.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

In fact all the rebuilt transmissions you see for sale from ANY company are just junkyard trannys with a shift kit. Although they do clean them up and fit all new friction materials etc.

Myself, I have always lived by the phrase "If you want a job done properly then do it yourself" and so re-built mine myself.

OK so I did make a small mistake but it was the first time I had ever seen inside one of these things and it was easy to put right. Plus it only cost me a few hours of my own time. It was not hard to do at all. Just scary when you see how many bits you have!

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Ted

Thanks for sharing your hideous experience!

You have made sure they lose THIS customer.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

I will tell you one thing about TCI. Two things actually.

I like their converters. They are very good - for the price.

HOWEVER I gave all my engine and car specs to their 'tech' guys and they insisted that the 10 inch converter was "too much" for my car on the street. So I bought the 11 inch that they recommended. As soon as I drove the car for the first time with it I knew it did not have enough stall for my engine. I now have a TCI 10 inch unit in there and all is well.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Dave-R

I have no reverse or 1st gear, so I believe it is past a little worn. That's why I'm trying to find the TSB in my other post. Something is wrong with the basic transmission design and I would like to find out before I buy my FOURTH unit.

I have a '73 Challenger with a stock 340. That is- with the original Carter therm 640, 9.5 pistons, performer manifold, headers, and a mild cam. It is bullet-proof, however- forgered, balanced,polished, shotpeened, moybdenum, double springs, double chain, etc.

But I am not putting any severe horepower to the tranny. I have a cooler and a temp gauge.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Wow, Dave!

I have the OEM manuals, and the tranny section goes on into oblivion!

You must be mechanically very adept to try it. Where did you get all the special tools?

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Try adjusting the rear band. My guess is it is slipping. A lot cheaper to keep the bands adjusted then to keep replacing transmissions!

The only other thing I can think of is that the servo that operates the rear band might have a leaking seal so the band does not apply full pressure.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

The good'ol internet is finally yielding some info!

Check this out!

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2001/mech.cfm

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Don't let the tranny section of the manual put you off! It is a LOT easier than it looks. You don't have to understand how it all works to rebuild one. You just need to follow simple instructions.

If you buy the B&M TransKit you get a instruction manual full of pictures and simple words so someone like me can follow it! They even have an optional video! The only special tools you need are an in-lbs torque wrench and some circlip pliers. I did find it useful during the rebuild to refere to both the B&M instructions and the workshop manual. My only mistake was to leave off one rubber seal from a piston. The trouble shooting guide in the B&M book helped me find the problem quickly.

Very rewarding job.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Dave-R

You're getting me awfully excited!

The only two things on that challenger that "scare" me are trans and the heater core!

I assume the B&M TransKit is the full rebuild?

Doug

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Yup. Everything you need including a sump plug kit. You can build for heavy duty, street/strip, or full race.

[Ted S (Teds)]

tci Convertors are just as bad or worse than there trannys

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

Most racers have used them over here for years without any problems. Mind you I would want something a bit better quallity if I had a serious race car.

For example the Paul Rossi 1970 Challenger 440 six-pack ran all it's racing life in this country on a TCI 10 inch unit pulling the wheels up in low 10s and high 9 second runs for years. I do not know anyone over here that has had a problem with one.

I do know some of the Mopar forums dis them all the time but how much is based on fact and how much is hearsay? If mine breaks I will be the first to let you know. But at the moment it works perfectly.

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Dave-R

I'm confused. You were talking about a "re-build", but then refer to the TransKit, which is basically a valve body upgrade.

Did you rebuild the transmission?

Doug

[Doug Russell (Zrussell)]

Okay, I get it. There are 2 types of TransKits. The BMM-10229 is the full rebuild.

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

B&M do three kits that I know of. There is the Shift Improver Kit which is just a modified valve body plate, the Transpack which is not a lot more and then the TransKit which is the full rebuild and includes what you would get in the other two kits. I might have that wrong but that's how I remember it.