Mechanical Fuel Pump Recommendations • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Jon** » 30 Nov 2010 19:55

The auto parts (chain store) jobber lasted 6 years or so. Any ideas for a reliable replacement. Also do they sometimes leak when defective as the car is 4' from the water heater in the garage and that would not be a good thing.

by **Adrian Worman** » 30 Nov 2010 20:19

SB or BB? I think a Carter performance pump is probably a good bet, presumably made for HP 340's and 440's originally.
Surely you don't have a heater in the garage that has a naked flame?

and anyway you don't need heaters where you are :lol:

I've never seen a pump leak fuel cos its faulty, more than likely poor hose connections :wink:

by **dave-r** » 30 Nov 2010 20:29

Carter every time for me.

Re-buildable pumps like the Carter are in three bits. A gasket or 0-ring seals the bottom part. Usually just one screw through the bottom holding it together. This bit allows you to rotate the IN pipe to the correct position.

The top part is sealed with the diaphram itself and a ring of screws. Again this can be rotated to position the OUT pipe.

Make sure these sealing surfaces are not warped. They should never leak but if they do a little fuel resistant gasket sealer will not do any harm.

by **dave-r** » 30 Nov 2010 20:33

Always use a regulator and a little pressure gauge with a performance pump. Otherwise your carb will tend to flood. Set it to 5.5 lbs with a Carter/Edelbrock carb and 6.5lbs on a Holley. A bit higher on a drag/street strip car.

by **Jon** » 30 Nov 2010 20:44

Yes, we do have an open flame water heater in the garage. It is the standard location in most homes out here as it is close to the laundry room in most instances. I will be moving it or completely sealing it with outside combustion air supply soon.

I really don't want to add more items under the hood like a regulator and such. I'll look around for a Carter SB pump with lower pressure??

by **Adrian Worman** » 30 Nov 2010 21:57

I'm amazed at that Jon, I would have expected some kind of combustion cover or door at least

Have a look on the web for Carter, look for a replacement for maybe a 340 Rallye 4bbl or similar. You don't have to clutter up the engine bay too much tho', a small regulater only has to be inline, does'nt need a return line. Have a look at the F.B.O website :wink:

by **Jon** » 01 Dec 2010 3:31

Is this the pump I'm looking for?

Carter M6902.

by **Adrian Worman** » 01 Dec 2010 10:08

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/cam6sumefupu.html
Think its the right one

by **dave-r** » 01 Dec 2010 11:48

Yep.

by **Tim** » 01 Dec 2010 13:02

That's the one I had. Worked fine for 7 years (Still working when I sold the car). If memory serves me, without a regulator it was running at about 12- 13psi, which is way too high. A regulator is a good investment and a quick fix.

by **Jon** » 01 Dec 2010 17:23

It's on the way. Thanks all!

by **Jon** » 08 Dec 2010 18:24

A couple of question, should the pump, fueline, and carb be primed prior to startup?

Also what adaptor in needed on the outlet 90 to the carb tubing. The pump has 1/4" NPT and the compression fitting is a (x/x" ISO ???) thread.?? :s006:

by **Adrian Worman** » 08 Dec 2010 21:45

Won't you be using the existing pump unions Jon? If not then most any dieseltruck spares outlet will have a selection of hose tails and union adaptors. Another answer would be to use a short piece of braided fuel hose onto a 1/4 npt or bsp X 3/8 tail hose adaptor,cut back the existing line to suit.
About 10 seconds of cranking will do all the priming and bowl filling for you, remember you've still got loads of fuel in the line from the tank :thumbsup:

by **Jon** » 09 Dec 2010 1:53

The line from the tank I installed a few years ago is 3/8". I can find that fitting to the pump as it is used in many applications. The rubber hose in between the rigid line on the frame and the fuel pump will use simple hose clamps for the joints.

The outlet to the carb needs to be stock looking though. It will be the 3/8" upgrade as I had planned for this event so the 5/16" (small block) line will be dicarded.

I am in need of the tread type normally used with a compression fitting. I think it is not a tapered design.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npt-n ... d_750.html

by **Adrian Worman** » 09 Dec 2010 15:14

Why not take the existing piece of tubing to the diesel pipe fitters as a sample and get them to bend you one up in whatever diameter you choose. Or buy some cunifer tubing, a pipe flaring tool, a brakepipe bender that'll accept up to 12mm tubing, then you can do it yourself. Probably only cost you about 20 bucks for the tools and then you've got 'em for future use :idea: