The Dodge Challenger Message Board

What timing sets are you guys running? I was looking at Edelbrocks 7804 double roller, anyone hear anything about it? Again , my engine is stock 440 6 Pack 4 speed 4.10 dana so I don't need anything crazy, just want something strong and not going to stretch. Thanks Rick

I would get a nice 3 bolt timing set,(I'm sure you're cam is a 3 bolt maybe not though) from either Edlebrock, Mancini Racing has Cloyes, Comp Cams, Pro-Gear, Napa(Federal Mogul), RollMaster, ect they are priced from around 75.00 to 150.00 with the higher priced ones having Billet and Heattreated gear sets, and reduce some friction with a block facing torrington needle bearing, and have an adjustable timing feature,, any of these gearsets will do nicely. (I havent heard any reports of 'Bad Cloyes' sets and we install about 5 a month in our shop but some have heard this). Of course the majority of these builds are OEM with lining up the dots and thats it. I personally like RollMaster,(Aussie made)! www.manciniracing.com

Honestly. Stay away from Coyles. You have been warned.

Thanks Dave, no cloyes!. I have a single bolt and still looking at the edelbrock 7804, it looks like a good set for the money around 55.00 USD. Eddie, I never heard of jp performance, who has it and how much, I will take a look. Thanks Rick

The RollMaster Timing sets can be had thru www.buyracingparts.com the cost is around 125.00 for 'standard set' 150.00 for an indexable set which you dont need. They are Australian made with the German Iwis chain which is exclusive to the RollMaster line and Billet heat treated cam and crank gear sets, roller bearing. None better

They do sound good Eddie. But why would you need a bearing at all? They fix to the ends of the cam and crank and do not rotate against anything?

dave-r wrote:They do sound good Eddie. But why would you need a bearing at all? They fix to the ends of the cam and crank and do not rotate against anything?

Are you sure Dave? I attached the cam gear and with the roller bearing I could feel a smoother action when turning it with my hand opposed to no bearing at all. The bearing fits 'around' the cam tunnel entrance. I know thats the back of the block but the cam tunnel boss is what I am trying to convey to you. The bearing fits around the outer edge and the cam gear rides on that instead of the front of the block surface. Kappish?

Never noticed it actually resting against the block on mine. I thought the end of the cam protuded very slightly so the gear does not rest on the block.

Not going to take it apart to check though so I take your word for it!

It does protrude slighty Dave and with a flat tappet keeping the cam in the block as there is no thrust retention plate on a B/RB, it might help a bit, but it's probaly more marketing than anything. With my setup and a roller cam it's more likely that the cam will float around .010-.015 and rub that area even more so.....either way bearing or not, I couldnt get one without it so it was feature that came with it. I wouldnt hesitate using a non-bearing timing set either. I do know one thing, the thrust will affect timing so what you did with the intermediate shaft thrust was reduce the clearance which reduced the chance for 'spark scatter' from too much clearance in the gear mesh. This is another reason why the cam thrust must be reduced to a minimum amount as far as my tiny brain can tell

I went with the edelbrock 7804 double roller set. All back together and runs great! Peace of mind knowing that nylon gear is GONE! Thanks Everyone!