The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Could you stick the cast headers on with some junk pipes? Do without mufflers for the 20 min break in? Just let a pair of mufflers rest on the floor?

You just need to run the engine for 20 mins at 2000-3000 rpm. Then set the timing and idle. After that fit the ceramics and follow their warm up - cool down precedure.

But then I would have to pull the engine again. That's more trouble than the ceramic headers are worth.

You don't have to pull the engine to fit the headers. Just do it the way i said using a pair of ramps to get the front end up and a trolley jack to lift the engine over one side at a time.

Since the engine is out, I guess I'll work it into place and install the headers to see if they will fit, and if they do I will then lift it enough to get the headers back out and then place the engine back on the mounts. I think I might be able to borrow some cast headers and pipes for a local mopar guy and follow your instructions. The break in/start up is still a few weeks away.
I might just leave the tranny out until after the header switch and break in.
I'm just getting a little frustrated at nothing going right on this project.

Its easier the second time around.

Just think of the wonderful learning experiance you are having.

Seriously though. We have all been though it. The good bit is at least you have people here warning you what to expect. That is cheaper and less time consuming then finding out on your own.

You better listen to Dave! He knows even, if he is from Northumberland. He knows a lot about our Yankee car's.

Hi Dave!

I know nothing.
I am just a murdering, sheep stealing, Northumberland Border Reiver.

At least you are just stealing sheep........
I do apprecaite all your help, so I guess I should just shut up on that subject!

Here's the latest on the headers. I went to pre-fit them. The passengers side will only fit if you use bolts, so I removed the studs. The clearance on the next to front bolt is such that they have the flange modified so you start the bolt, slip the header over it and slide it back. This leaves NO clearance for the head of the bolt. I had to take a hammer and a pin to do a little modification on the inside of the header near the flange. It is not noticeable but had to tweek it about 3/16. I also had to modify the head of the bolt from a 9/16" to make it a 1/2" and a little grind on the head to make it a bit thinner in order for it to fit. No way these would have worked without doing this.
I went to remove the bolts on the other side and wouldn't you know it, one snapped, so after lunch its time to drill and tap the end stud. This side should require no modification. I just hope it clears the steering box when we go to fit them later today.
I have somebody coming over to help with the headliner in about an hour, so if all goes well, we will have the engine in, headers fitted and removed for break in, headliner in and inside window trim pieces in place. On tuesday I have the glass guy coming over for the front and rear glass.

The Toy Peddler wrote:At least you are just stealing sheep........
I do apprecaite all your help, so I guess I should just shut up on that subject!

Here's the latest on the headers. I went to pre-fit them. The passengers side will only fit if you use bolts, so I removed the studs. The clearance on the next to front bolt is such that they have the flange modified so you start the bolt, slip the header over it and slide it back. This leaves NO clearance for the head of the bolt. I had to take a hammer and a pin to do a little modification on the inside of the header near the flange. It is not noticeable but had to tweek it about 3/16. I also had to modify the head of the bolt from a 9/16" to make it a 1/2" and a little grind on the head to make it a bit thinner in order for it to fit. No way these would have worked without doing this.
I went to remove the bolts on the other side and wouldn't you know it, one snapped, so after lunch its time to drill and tap the end stud. This side should require no modification. I just hope it clears the steering box when we go to fit them later today.
I have somebody coming over to help with the headliner in about an hour, so if all goes well, we will have the engine in, headers fitted and removed for break in, headliner in and inside window trim pieces in place. On tuesday I have the glass guy coming over for the front and rear glass.

ok yes remove all the studs, they are a pain
,also you might consider some quality header bolts with lock washers, i just replaced mine before the trip,

and also i found 3/8 inch heads which make life alot easier ,

also if you havent already done this is , slot the ends of your gasket, that way all you have to do is get the 2 end bolts started , the slip the gasket in with the slots on each end will hold the gasket,the get the other bolts started and tighten it up, just some things to consider

oh yea dave i hope all you were doing was just stealing those sheep

You have to use bolts with headers or they are just about impossible.

Header bolts always have a 3/8 head and headers are designed with header bolts in mind.

And don't forget that all the exhaust bolts go into the water jacket. You need sealer on them.

Thanks for that info. I wasn't aware. They gave me 3/8 bolts and also a few 9/16. I do have to use the modified 9/16 for the one because the heads on the other bolts were too deep.
Paul

We put the engine in and were able to work the headers on without any problem. These Hooker Headers fit fantastic! There is about an inch clearance from the steering box and right firewall. Much better than before. The passengers side does just brush up against the torsion bar, but there is no bind. I can even bolt on the starter or take it off without any problem. After fitting, we lifted the engine again and removed the headers until after break in. I will be able to borrow some stock manifolds and pipes for the break in. It's full steam ahead now!

Good news!

Man you work hard on this thing. I hope it is worth it!