[Eddie]

#1 This is the only mag I get anymore. Excellent Article

[Eddie]

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[Eddie]

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[Eddie]

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[Eddie]

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[Eddie]

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[Eddie]

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[Eddie]

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[Eddie]

#9

[dave-r]

That was an interesting read Eddie thanks.

[Eddie]

Just pray you never have a CrankShaft Sensor/tone wheel go bad,,although it should never happen. "Should" being the operative word! I have NO idea why the decided to balance the sensor and magnet/crankshaft as an assembly? It's odd too. Other brands of engines use a tone wheel and sensor mounted in a usually inaccessible place near the lower block, but the sensor once found can be replaced without too much difficulty. This looks like a service nightmare if found 'bad'. The engine would surely have to be dis-assembled.

[jr]

Just pray you never have a CrankShaft Sensor/tone wheel go bad,,although it should never happen. "Should" being the operative word! I have NO idea why the decided to balance the sensor and magnet/crankshaft as an assembly? It's odd too. Other brands of engines use a tone wheel and sensor mounted in a usually inaccessible place near the lower block, but the sensor once found can be replaced without too much difficulty. This looks like a service nightmare if found 'bad'. The engine would surely have to be dis-assembled.

I don't see how crank wheel would go bad. Nothing touches it so it doesn't wear off or anything. Since it's inside engine if something causes damage to it there's going to be host of other problems too.

Perhaps you're mixing electrical sensor and tonewheel? Terms used on article are bit confusing as they call tonewheel itself as "sensor" while it's just piece of metal that actual electrical sensor "reads". I don't think you can change tonewheel on LS2 for example without taking crankshaft out first? BTW. There's no keyway on new hemi damper that would ensure it's always mounted in same location so you can't mount tonewheel on front of engine like on older engines.

Crankshaft Position Sensor (5V Hall-sensor) is mounted low on passenger side of block. Depending on exhaust setup and if using transmission with starter on drivers side (545RFE, W5A580 4x4) or passenger side (regular W5A580) it's either easy or not so easy to access. CKP sensor going bad was quite common with old 5.2L and 5.9L Magnum's, but I don't think it's as bad with newer models.

New sensors (not crank wheel, but electrical part) are available. DIY persons might prefer #56028815AA (2003-2006) since there's matching electrical connector available from Standard Motor Products with part number S738. Only difference compared to new one (2007-up) is electrical connector which is difficult to obtain unless cutting from stock harness.

[dave-r]

I wondered when you would show up on this thread JR.

Speaking with some "hands on" experience there eh?

[RedRaven]

Tech stuff.................I feel dizzy!!!

[Eddie]

Thanks for the explantion JR. I've never worked on a Gen. III Hemi. The article states they balanced the tone wheel and the sensor as an assembly and it's not available seperately,,only as a package deal. So if the sensor were to throw a diagnostic code and the sensor were to test out faulty then the lower end would have to come apart. Since the sensor can detect cylinder misfires would a "shortcut" be possible using an replacemnt sesnor and leaving the usually 100% reliable tone wheel and lower end untouched.

[dave-r]

I can't see how the balance of the crank could be effected just by changing the sensor.

[Eddie]

I can't see how the balance of the crank could be effected just by changing the sensor.

I too am puzzled by this Dave. I'll check AllData today and get the 'skivvy' on it.

[jr]

Thanks for the explantion JR. I've never worked on a Gen. III Hemi. The article states they balanced the tone wheel and the sensor as an assembly and it's not available seperately,,only as a package deal. So if the sensor were to throw a diagnostic code and the sensor were to test out faulty then the lower end would have to come apart. Since the sensor can detect cylinder misfires would a "shortcut" be possible using an replacemnt sesnor and leaving the usually 100% reliable tone wheel and lower end untouched.

Sensor is separate part and mounted outside block. Actual sensor end goes to inside block thru hole while mounting bracket and electrical connector stay outside. You can change it just like you did on older engines and it doesn't affect balancing nor require tearing engine down. Crankshaft sensor has no mechanical connection to crank since it's hall sensor. There's nothing to balance on sensor itself.

Picture below shows older style crankshaft sensor. Article says sensor but it's actually tonewheel or whatever it should be called. At least I wouldn't call it sensor.

[Eddie]

The article is misleading by calling the tone wheel a 'Crank Sensor' I understand how a Hall Effect,,Variable Reluctance or Inductive type of missing tooth trigger wheel works by producing a square wave digi signal that measures both time and voltage. The sensor itself is not part of the balancing procedure,,cant be it's a stationary part as you described JR. Thank You

[jr]

Yep, article is misleading on sensor part I agree. Other than that it's pretty good.

Hall sensors produce square wave signal. With VR and inductive you get something that looks more like sinewave.

PS. I know you know this stuff. Just don't trust blindly everything you read on magazines.

[Eddie]

Yep, article is misleading on sensor part I agree. Other than that it's pretty good.

Hall sensors produce square wave signal. With VR and inductive you get something that looks more like sinewave.

PS. I know you know this stuff. Just don't trust blindly everything you read on magazines.

Yep, I should take those articles with a grain of salt JR.