The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Hi mates
Hope you all good,

I really like the look of the 440 Source starter size stroker kits and at the current exchange rate they work out at about £850 plus shipping to England.Any of you who have used their goodies or know of any reports good or evil please fill me in.
What about SixPackSpeedshop for similar products?I was sure they were opening an outlet in The South West of England, maybe Bristol but I might have been dreaming.
Ta very much, Adrian

It turned out it was sixpack speedshop that were dreaming of a UK outlet.
Their UK guy decided to take a trip around the world with his money instead. They are just a parts warehouse anyway.

440 source are your best bet. I only hear good things about them.

Adrian Worman wrote:Hi mates
Hope you all good,

I really like the look of the 440 Source starter size stroker kits and at the current exchange rate they work out at about £850 plus shipping to England.Any of you who have used their goodies or know of any reports good or evil please fill me in.

I have one of Brandon's kits in my engine. To be honest, it's about the only thing that works alright in my car! I had it delivered to Geof Hauser for balancing back then (2 years ago. GH did my engine block too, and I bought the engine bearings from him), but 440source now has a balancing service too, so you could order a pre-balanced kit.

Customer service is good also, and the owner is a nice chap who answers questions quickly. I heard good things about his heads too.

What kind of numbers are you planning for your engine??

gday i have bought a 512 stroker kit & there stealth heads but have not assembled the motor yet but they were good to deal with & you just cant beat there price anywhere its all nice looking stuff there are some pics of it in my post (Ian's 70 se) i dont know how to link you straight to it but it shouldnt be to hard to find
hope this helps
cheers ian

Ians thread.

http://challenger.mpoli.fi/forum/viewto ... 9576#39576

Adrian, I havent bought Brandon's 440source stroker kit but have almost everything else in his catalog! I bought mine from another vendor who also did the machine work to my block. If I had a local MoPar Machine shop,(our local shop didnt have a torque plate, magnaflux or sonic checker.), so I passed on them, I would have used 440source as my stroker kit supplier. I think their quality and pricing cant be beat. But more importantly Adrian, customer service means everything if you are building an engine thats going to be a precision built Hi-Performance piece. Issues WILL come up that need special care or the part may have to be altered or modified to work, or the block may have issues that need to be corrected, either way Brandon, I belive and this is just my opinion only, will do what he can to help you. I have returned a few parts that I changed my mind about and he returned them no problem. They were unopened of course. But I think his customer service cant be beat.

Thanks for the replys. I was just gonna focus on the largest combo that did'nt require any block surgery like oil pick up mods etc. Was aiming for around 10 to 1 comp cos I got couple of pairs of heads with hardened seats and that should be ideal when I can afford ali heads.
They do balance and bearing deals and even stuff like a new flywheel, oil pump, timing set,balancer, pushrods etc all look good value. Those heads look brilliant for the money, you could'nt even buy used for that could you?
I shall build a nice streetable short motor and then swapping cam, heads etc will be a simple one day job { yeah right}.I would love a solid 13 sec car with huge torque and easy everyday manners.Fingers crossed.
I must email them and get a quote for shipping to UK.
Adrian

Adrian Worman wrote:Thanks for the replys. I was just gonna focus on the largest combo that did'nt require any block surgery like oil pick up mods etc. Was aiming for around 10 to 1 comp cos I got couple of pairs of heads with hardened seats and that should be ideal when I can afford ali heads.
They do balance and bearing deals and even stuff like a new flywheel, oil pump, timing set,balancer, pushrods etc all look good value. Those heads look brilliant for the money, you could'nt even buy used for that could you?
I shall build a nice streetable short motor and then swapping cam, heads etc will be a simple one day job { yeah right}.I would love a solid 13 sec car with huge torque and easy everyday manners.Fingers crossed.
I must email them and get a quote for shipping to UK.
Adrian

You sound like you are going to build a 'plant' similar to mine except for the induction,(mines gonna be a little hairy) but the torque the strokers produce just cant be beat! No, No way can you get the same performance and reliability out of a set of even N.O.S. heads as you could out of his out of the box 900.00 heads can give you! Thats the heads I am going to buy someday! Another thing is the internal oil pickup point. I didnt want a single or dual lined oil pan with external or exposed oil line hanging near the chassis. Not on a true street engine. Nothing wrong with it mind you it's just not for me. But according to Brandon, I spoke with him at great lengths at last years MoPar Nats, he informed me that even the 512 stroker for 400 block would clear with internal pickup oiling. I'm not sure about the 440 block but according to his website the 500+ stroker kit for 440 block will clear. Flat top pistons at zero deck or near it will give you the 10:1 comp. ratio, d-dished pistons will lower that another 2 points but still retain quench,(very important for detonation reduction), so make sure you plan the piston part accordingly, that way there will be minimal deck adjustment,(you need a thick or thicker block deck for good gasket sealing and the less you machine off the better especially with the factory block which didnt have a lot of material there, I only had them remove the bare minimum for a flat surface with semi rough finish cause I'm using Cometic Gaskets and my deck height is -.006 with my .036 Cometic's I'll have the perfect quench at .040)

according to what i have been able to find out the 440 - 512 stroker kit is still good for stock internal oiling that was why i chose that combo it gave me max cubes without having to stuff around with a custom external oiling system i will be using a high volume pump & a hemi size pick up
cheers ian

Same here Ian. 1/2 internal diameter, full block intersection radius, oil feed holes to the mains drilled out. (The factory used a stepped drill that drilled the hole progessively smaller/larger, the holes were drilled out one uniform size thus incresing flow 20% to the mains), at least thats what the machinist claims! But I didnt want to take any chances, so I had that done to the block. With a 6-8 qt. pan with lower baffle, windage tray, HV pump, modified oil system, 20W-50W oil, .002 clearance on both mains and rods, soild lifters with oil feed holes to lifter interface, I should be set for 7k blasts all day everyday! But more importantly I did this for low speed oiling concerns.

eddie what depth oil pan can be used without causing ground clearance issues there seem to be a lot of 7" deep pan available im worried they will sit to low & i dont want to wipe out the bottom of the pan on our shit roads , i hadnt thought about the mains oil feed holes but ill check it out thanks
cheers ian

ian you are right i trashed a 7 inch pan we have crap roads here too, however i did find a 7 qt road race pan that only drops 5 inches, from milodon, i think i posted a pic on this site, if not i can post it again,just say the word!

Ian, I think I'm going to go with the Hemi 6 Ot. oil pan but Moroso and Milodon both make real nice pans with excellent internal baffles and windage control and they supposedly dont extend any further than the 6 Ot. Hemi oil pan. I wonder if Dave or Fabian, Drew are using those types of pans and if they have adequate ground clearance? I must admit I really dont know a whole lot about the aftermarket oil pans but some of the newest street oil pans,(read steel, I wont use aluminum on the street), look like they will do the job, of keeping the oil away from the counterweights while providing decent oil pan clearance to the tarmac. Another option for me at least is the Milodon Truck 8 Qt. rear sump pan with 1/2 pickup. This is if I decide to put the beast in my PowerWagon!

Thanks Drew, I thought you just got a nice one from Milodon. I remember the pics. It's really trick!

airfuelEddie wrote:Thanks Drew, I thought you just got a nice one from Milodon. I remember the pics. It's really trick!

here it is on the car , as you can see my car sits kinda low , but the headers are a little lower, i havent hit the skid plate, yet, but with the old pan , i hit everything in the street

thanks for that info drew & eddie was a bit suspicious about the clearance that confirms it ill look around & see what i can find that will do the job i may even consider modifying my stock pan ive done it before to put engines in cars they werent meant to go in so if i get the hemi pick up first then make the pan to suit im sure that will work out much cheaper as this build is getting costly but im sure im not the only 1 with this delema
cheers ian

Nothing wrong with the stock HP 440/426 that had the baffles and windage tray.

One mod you can do though is to make the pan wider at the bottom rather than deeper. It just takes a bit of fabrication.

Remember. If you add capacity to the oil pan don't fill the pan to the max mark on the dipstick!

The point of increasing the capacity of the pan is not to increase the amount of oil in the system. It is to allow you to run with a lower oil level so that the oil is kept well away from the crank.

The windage tray also needs PLENTY of drain holes. The stock Mopar tray needs to have the slots opened up and possibly more holes drilled too. Again, this is to get the oil drained away from the crank throws.

dave-r wrote:Nothing wrong with the stock HP 440/426 that had the baffles and windage tray.

One mod you can do though is to make the pan wider at the bottom rather than deeper. It just takes a bit of fabrication.

Remember. If you add capacity to the oil pan don't fill the pan to the max mark on the dipstick!

The point of increasing the capacity of the pan is not to increase the amount of oil in the system. It is to allow you to run with a lower oil level so that the oil is kept well away from the crank.

The windage tray also needs PLENTY of drain holes. The stock Mopar tray needs to have the slots opened up and possibly more holes drilled too. Again, this is to get the oil drained away from the crank throws.

Dave is the man! Exactly! The 'trick' is as Dave says to have the oil level away form the reciprocating assembly. Thats it! You wouldnt believe how many people think it's for an increase in oil capacity, it's really about controlling windage, I always use 1/2 quart from the full mark on all my engines. The factory had to take worst case scenarios into account like forgetting to add oil, but the full mark is too high for performance! I am leaning towards the Hemi/440 Pan which has ample capacity, a baffle in the sump and ample ground clearance. Although Drew's Pan looks close to the stock height, maybe it isnt I dont know offhand? The best benefit you can do to ensure proper high RPM oil delivery is to ensure you have an oil galley in the block thats drilled all the way through to the mains with a very long drill bit,(dont break it off however)!!and radius the intersection of the oil feed hole to the pickup tube. The stock factory oil feed hole is cut at a 90 degree angle and is not conducive to great flow. This area can be opened up or radiused with a carbide bit and careful grinding, a 10 minute job. Here is a pic of my intersection at the oil pump/pickup point, the pipe cleaners are there to show the passages. Where the pipe cleaners meet is the intersection that should be radiused and helps full flow delivery.

Another, this is the 1/2 (I.D.)pickup boss.

The oil pump mounting area. This is the hole to key on. If you blow up the pic you can see where the 2 pipe cleaners meet. This is the area that needs a radius cut instead of the sharp 90 degree flow impeding intersection is. A long small carbide round ball type tip 6" would probably be perfect for the job.

drewcrane wrote:

airfuelEddie wrote:Thanks Drew, I thought you just got a nice one from Milodon. I remember the pics. It's really trick!

here it is on the car , as you can see my car sits kinda low , but the headers are a little lower, i havent hit the skid plate, yet, but with the old pan , i hit everything in the street

I like that skid plate Drew! And the oil Pan too!

i was going to midify a stock pan ,then i found this milodon pan , yes ian if i were you i would add on to a stock pan for the simple fact it is much cheaper, and you can make it how ever you want, im not skilled at metal fab. , so i went with the milodon, and a stock mopar windage tray, good luck and have fun ,it is a cool project to do!

thanks for the info guys thats all very helpful
cheers ian

airfuelEddie wrote:I wonder if Dave or Fabian, Drew are using those types of pans and if they have adequate ground clearance?

Sorry for the late answer, I was working on the Chally this week-end.

Same setup as drewcrane (the road-race Milodon pan).
I used to have the deep milodon pan (30930 IIRC), it scraped the ground and leaked.
strip-only.

The new one has baffles and trapdoors, and sits well above the ground.
It's pricey, but it's really good.

Good info! Thanks Drew& Fabian.