The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Thanks a bunch guys, it should make around 575-600 HP but the real good thing is the torque. It should make a boatload down low and be a fun street engine. As soon as I get the water pump, dizzy, and carby I'll take it to the Machinist Engine shop here in Terry Hut and strap it down on a Stuska and let er rip!! I'll of course post a video of it. After that I just may ship it to Dublin, Ireland,,,sound good Wayne?

thats dead sexy eddie

airfuelEddie wrote:Thanks a bunch guys, it should make around 575-600 HP but the real good thing is the torque. It should make a boatload down low and be a fun street engine. As soon as I get the water pump, dizzy, and carby I'll take it to the Machinist Engine shop here in Terry Hut and strap it down on a Stuska and let er rip!! I'll of course post a video of it. After that I just may ship it to Dublin, Ireland,,,sound good Wayne?

yea wayne let that big ass motor spank ya,mommie ahhhhhhhhh

Thanks Dave, Ian & Drew,,yeah Wayne needs a "Big Dude' in his R/T ,,but yeah,,it will be for sale as soon as I get it done and tuned.

Just got my complete 'front end' for the engine with 1/2 the parts missing from the 'Source" calling them now...... (Water Pump, Housing, bolt kit, T-Stat&Housing, T-Stat, Temp. sender, WP pulley, gasket, belt)

airfuelEddie wrote:Just got my complete 'front end' for the engine with 1/2 the parts missing from the 'Source" calling them now...... (Water Pump, Housing, bolt kit, T-Stat&Housing, T-Stat, Temp. sender, WP pulley, gasket, belt)

Kudo's to 440 source!! They are sending me the missing parts ASAP!

yea theyre good guys to deal with arent they
cheers ian

Yeah, Natalie always takes care of me. I have the distributor, E-85 carb, pushrods on order, will post a pic when it's all bolted together

I scored this 727-B Part#3681864 came out of 1974 Dodge Charger with a 400/4V for 100.00 bucks. I have a PowerTrain class this Aug. 27 and am going to tear it down, clean the case inspect the parts carefully then re-build it myself.. Can anyone suggest a complete re-build kit? I want this to live behind 600+ft. lbs. when it comes time for a convertor whats the best brand? Thanks for any input,,I'm typically a gear crasher, havent done a slushbox in 20 years It will eventually end up behind my stroker engine. I cant believe I let you guys talk me into an automatic,, should be pretty fun.

Shouldnt something go into this hole?

Only GM and Phord ,make slush boxes,

when you get it apart check the sprag,and put a shift kit in it,replace the clutch packs,i dont remember what else, i have been very hard on mine and it still works,but i have broken a sprag or two

Your gonna love that automatic, Eddie! And they do better at the track than a manual. And on the street, too! Of course, everything I drive is a manual except for my Ford's and, the 340 Chally. I love the neck snapping whip of a 727 Torqueflight!

http://www.tcsperformance.com/

I use one of their converters. Transman on here used to work for them. Check out his posts for information on rebuild kits. But TransGo seem to be the best. http://transgo.com/

these guys are good too good and expensive,

http://www.tciauto.com/

also replace your flex plate with racing unit,i wouldent use the factory unit with that much HP.

I would strongly, VERY strongly advise you not to use any TCI products.

They not only fail but also damage other parts of your transmission.

have you had a bad experience with tci stuff dave
i know the oil pan on mine is tci but dont know the full details of whats inside but the guy i bought it off said it was built to go behind a supercharged hemi mega block that never got built so im confident it should be strong enough for my aplication
cheers ian

I am talking about trans parts and in particular their torque converters. Not only have I had serious problems but if you look around places like moparts you will see a long history of converter and trans damaged caused by their cheap manufacturing processes.

They are cheaper than the rest for a reason.

dave-r wrote:I am talking about trans parts and in particular their torque converters. Not only have I had serious problems but if you look around places like moparts you will see a long history of converter and trans damaged caused by their cheap manufacturing processes.

They are cheaper than the rest for a reason.

Good to know, I only used the pan,and i used the trans go kit you posted,

so no TCI

Thanks for all the replies guys. The last time I checked it was B&M with Dick Landy engineered stuff. Now it's Trans-Go! Drew, I will use a bolt in sprag, and a SFI Flexplate with Kolene Steels and whatever else Trans-Go suggests, any other 'Heavy Duty Hard Parts needed? How about the Planetary carrier? Should I convert to a different spline and 4 or 5 pinion Hemi Style and mainshaft/Carrier? The drum is cast I think, should I use a Billet alluminum? Kevlar Band?

dave-r wrote:if you look around places like moparts

On that forum their nickname is "Total Crap Inc.", if that's any indication of the reliability of their products.

That's a shame considerinr they started offering a 6-speed sequential auto transmission kit for Mopars...

That TCS website is all to hell and only half working. Their old website was great.

I wouldn't bother with the bolt in sprag. When they fail it is not usually because they have come loose.

I would fit a billet steel or aluminium direct clutch drum. That way if the sprag does fail the trans will not explode. The stock cast drum can spin at 2.2 times input rpm if the sprag fails and most trans explosions are caused by a stock drum flying apart.
The aluminium version is cool and about 57% lighter than the stock drum. Plus it will hold up to 6 friction plates vs. 4 in a stock unit.

A manual valve body will prevent sprag failure anyway if it applies the rear band in low.

It is vital that you buy this book before you start;
http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-T ... 735&sr=1-1

You should get a catalogue from TCS and have a look.

Eddie you could maybe do a sideline in transmission servicing and modification. people are so freaked out by transmissions they always want to pay someone to fix them. Yet they are actually very simple things to rebuild as long as the case is in good condition.

Thanks Dave, I'll heed your advice.

Got some new and used parts. The Hooker Headers are Used 1 7/8 Ceramic coated for a 440 in a 70-74 E-Body but they should fit the Lowdeck on the dyno just fine. I couldnt pass up the price and needed some sort of an exhaust header/manifold! The Carb is a Quickfuel tech. 750 CFM DP thats been worked over by Innovative Horsepower solutions for E-85. The pushrods are custom length Trend 3/8 .080 Chrome-Moly and the fuel log is a AeroQuip Stainless braided fuel log thats compatible with a variety of fuels including all alcohol based. School is out for summer break but starts up next week. I got all the parts except the headers from Scott Brown at Buy Racing Parts

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I also took Dave's advice and ordered Carl Munroe's Torqueflite book.

Sorry about that Eddie. The board has been having problems.

nice looking carby youve got there eddie
cheers ian

nice looking carby youve got there eddie
cheers ian