The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Moparman1972 wrote:How'd they turn out, Eddie?

I cc'd the ports a long and time consuming procedue but without CNC porting it's the only way I know of to match the ports volume along with some machinists layout tools. The #1 port had 295 CFM@.600 with 4.220 bore adaptor@28" of depression. The rest of the ports were all within a few CFM and the Exhaust side was around 236 CFM@.600. So I am very happy with the results regarding flow. The CC'ing should all ports within 3 cc so I stopped there. I also finished Port Matching the intake manifold to the intake ports. Dont trust the gasket! I almost screwed up a few times trying to use it as an absolute layout tool.Take measurements from the bolt holes and keep a straight line across and below the ports. Now I fully understand why some guys pay the money they do for CNC ported heads from their supplier, it's a bargain in time alone. But for the money I learned what has been known for quite some time but had to see it myself, 90% of the port flow is in the bowls&valve seat, the rest is for upper RPM power, port volume also means a lot as you ratchet up cam specs and carb size&intake manifold volume throw in some compression and voila' a race plant. I'll tell you this,, my combo is gonna have some hellacious torque and throttle response,, I hope it doesnt run out of steam above 5500 RPM's. The best tool I used was the 1/8 collet mini-die grinder. Also take some Hi-Tack and smear it onto your finger tips. Place a 1" sqaure of emery cloth on them and go to town in the ports. I went through yards and yards of the stuff and have calloused tips! It's great for reaching and fingering those ports! My shop instructor was so impressed with the technique he sent SuperFlow a pic of it. Eddie's "Fingering technique" for those hard to reach areas. I call them the 'F' Spot! Seriously,, it helps along the long/short side radius at the transitions. I didnt want to remove a lot of material there,,just smooth it into the port and that technique proved cheap, effective, and invaluable because alloy is very soft and I couldnt reach any tootsie rolls or other abrasive tools,,the arbor would hit and damage the seats,, and the finger fit perfectly. All the way up to the knuckle!

Pic

nuther, I never touched the guide bosses.

I should have Pat take the pics. You can see there was little actual material removed,,along the bowl radius,, the pushrod pinch point especially the backside of the pinch,, smoothing a lot of casting flash off. Just minor stuff.

Looks great! Haha yeah getting into the ports is always fun.

It's just another card in your deck, being able to port yourself and know what the hell you're doing, even if it takes a lot of time. And it'll all be worth it when you start it.

Come on now Eddie. You usually use your middle finger for that sort of thing don't you?

Yeah but picking my nose doesnt count. Finishing up on my Victor 383 Intake manifold. I had to remove quite a bit of material around the ports to match the heads inlets. A 1/4" die grinder with an extended arbor shank with 'tootsie' rolls and abrasive ball buffs and I removed all the casting flash and smoothed the ports and runner openings a nice rounded smooth edge. All the welders here at school are scared to TIG it. I've got about a dozen junk alloy intakes and motorcycle gear cases all alloy. I'm gonna practice then start melting this thing! As soon as I can find someone with 'sense' I'll get a pic! My pics suck I know! Thanks Dylan&Dave,, I cant wait to fire this beast up! It's gonna be carbed and distributor at first.. I simply couldnt wait that long for the F.I. conversion

Whew, hard to believe it's been 7 months. The VP trip took a lot out of me financially. But, I'm back at it! Here is our new facility complete with 9 HD lifts. 2 are 15,000 pound units for HD diesel trucks and Farm equipment but we will have 18 lifts by this time next year. I ordered a set of Lunati Roller Lifters, RollMaster Timing set with Torrington bearing, cam Button, and a few precision tools to aid in setting up the cam&Valvetrain. As soon as I get settled in, parts in my hands,, I'll post more engine assembly pics.

"My area"

classroom lift and flowbench

Still a lot of work to be done. But it's fully climate controlled and has ample space, 18,000 sq. ft.

Wow Eddie.

That is one hell of a facility you have there. You jammy bugger!

Aren't those lifts a little close to the wall? Also is there a secure storage area so you don't have to lug your tool chest home every day?
Looks like a real nice setup. Too bad you don't have one like that at home

that pretty damn awesome eddie beats the trolly jack & jack stands i use but great to see you getting such useful equipment to use
cheers ian

The lifts are further away from the wall than the pic shows and has plenty of clearance for any vehicle. I dont have a 'Lockable' tool cabinet other than my Snap-On tool box but I'm not gonna lug it to school.

Checking TDC and the Centerline of the cam in relation to the crank

It's at 108 Centerline(Intake),,4 degrees advanced.

That's a nice big one you've got there Eddie.


Degree wheel I meant!

cool

Thanks Ian & Dave. I bought all these 'fancy' tools and finding the CenterLine/TDC took only a few minutes. Seems almost like I wasted my money just to find out it was within 1/2 degree 'off' Now all these high kids and 2 girls in my class want me to 'degree' their smallblock shivys with it.

you might have to tell them your a gm free zone

For those that want to run a roller camshaft be aware that you will have to fabricate a means to control the thrust clearance. I had to fabricate a sheetmetal plate behind the timing cover. I TIG welded the plate in then filed the bushing down to achieve the .008 clearance I am shooting for. Checking that clearance is trial and error because there isnt a means to setup the dial indicator on the front or rear so a wiggle with a large screwdriver and carefully observing the clearance is done. The .008 is the same thickness as a sheet of quality writing paper. There is a front cover made that can accomplish this task easily but I aint payin 500 bucks for one!

airfuelEddie wrote:Thanks Ian & Dave. I bought all these 'fancy' tools and finding the CenterLine/TDC took only a few minutes. Seems almost like I wasted my money just to find out it was within 1/2 degree 'off' Now all these high kids and 2 girls in my class want me to 'degree' their smallblock shivys with it.

Always worth checking though because there are many timing sets on the market that are WAY off.

Steer clear of Cloyes in particular as they have a really bad rep.

airfuelEddie wrote:Checking that clearance is trial and error because there isnt a means to setup the dial indicator on the front or rear so a wiggle with a large screwdriver and carefully observing the clearance is done.

Is there no-where at all you can get a feeler gauge in where you can measure a difference between the cam and something on the block?

It is not something I have ever had to do.

Thanks Dave. I went with RollMaster, very nice setup with keyways cut into the lower gear. And with all new parts and fresh machining it's just insurance but I had to know for sure. It's worth having a deck bridge and a lifter bore Cam Lobe mic anyways, and trying to juggle a lifter,pushrod and set a dial indicator on all that is just a plain ' pain in the ASS'. It makes the procedure VERY EASY and accurate.. As far as the cam thrust, I cant find a way to insert a feeler gauge anywhere in the cam tunnel so it's trial and error with a small dab of silly putty on the front of the cam button and the reinforced timing cover. I had to add a 2 inch by 3 inch .200 thick piece of mild steel inside the cover,,TIG welded so I could concentrate the heat where I wanted it and not blow a hole thru the 'thin' steel of the cover. Ive never done a roller cam either with a stock type cover. Now I see why some of the 'heavy hitters' use a cast cover of either alloy or billet. I also had to send the chain back. It was .600 'loose' pressing in towards the block Centerline. The cam would have been retarded a few degrees with this much slack in the chain!

my timing set is rollmaster also its good to hear a good report on a product im using thanks eddie
cheers ian

Here is a pic of the Mancini Racing sourced Diamond thrust bushing,(MRE-930) with a captured torrington thrust bearing and weird Torx type fasteners which dont fit a standard torx head or a torx plus head.(T-50 thru TP-50, Hex mm and standard) I tried a Hex head as well,,nothing fits it. I'll go to Fastenal Industrial Suppliers tomm. and take a bolt and see what they have for it. I also trashed the steel cover from too much heat even though I TIG welded it nicley,,so I ordered a 440 source Billet alloy cover,,hope it all works together,,if nothing else it should look waycool

dang ed do you have a time machine? that pic is from 07 lol,

jus kiddin cant wait to see that billit cover

Everytime I swap new batteries in this camera, the date changes.

ianandjess wrote:my timing set is rollmaster also its good to hear a good report on a product im using thanks eddie
cheers ian

RollMaster makes an excellent product. There is a difference between the standard set and the set that is .010 under. The center hole in the .010 wont fit a cam bushing while the standard set fits them all. I dont know if this is a RollMaster trait or they simply changed production. I would ask before buying a set. I had to swap chains from the standard set to the -.010 because I need the hole to be bigger for my bushing but needed a shorter chain due to 'spirited' line honing/boring that wasnt brought to my attention on the labor manifest or vocally. Thankfully my supplier isnt a piece of fecal matter like that DH guy. Oops I forgot there is a few DH lovers out there. I would also like to thank Scotty Brown for his patience and advice. None better!