The Dodge Challenger Message Board

dave-r wrote:I guess it depends what it is going to be fitted into.

In that case Dave. I should just put Hirsch's primer coat and be done with it.

I did not like that Vista turqouse really
In that case i would rather go for street hemi orange, that fits in every vehicle! But street hemi orange is not a sleeper kind of paint, what do you think Dave? Thats more known as the colour of a powerplant kind of paint(?) turquoise should really be a sleeper if anything... But i thought you meant more blue... Hmmm.... where is everybody elses oppinion? I agree with Dave, that is depending a bit on what it should be mounted in... But i vote Hemi orange if you want it to be bad, and turqoise to a definitely sleeper, and blue for a stock look regular sleeper!
If stock look, old man, sleeper engine- Go for the turqoise if you like that colour? I believe that engine will look real nice whatever you decide Ed! What colour did the 400"s came in?

I know.... Ask your wife Ed? They like to choose and decide stuff...

Jimiboy wrote:I know.... Ask your wife Ed? They like to choose and decide stuff...

She isnt allowed in my shop!

I should explain, we have a lot of 'gentlemen' on this site and I wouldnt want them to get the wrong idea. She isnt' allowed in my shop, ever!!

airfuelEddie wrote:I should explain, we have a lot of 'gentlemen' on this site and I wouldnt want them to get the wrong idea. She isnt' allowed in my shop, ever!!

Yeah, she hates the stuff i have. Would sell it all for a few bucks! Hope I outlive her!

Don't anyone tell Eddie, but when he croaks, his wife and I have a deal. I get everything for USD $100 (or 20 Euros, whichever is more valuable then)

So thats what those St. Louis and Life Insurance long distance billing calls was for...... Barc, you DOG!!!

I thought we were talking Chrysler Blue. That Green Suck's! Oop's, was that out loud? Edward. If it's between those two color's... Please, go Orange.

I'm sorry but, I just looked at that Turquoise paint, again. I think I'm going to take a sleep aid and retire.

I agree, Blue is my vote, and that is blue not turqouse

Thanks for all the replys guys, I have been plugging all this data in the software at school and I keep coming up with a 11.2-11.4 comp ratio with flat tops and 36cc gasket, 6.760 rod, 1.220 piston, 4.375 bore, stroke of 4.15. Of course the dynamic and static ratios are a little different due to the intake valve opening rates. There is no way I will be able to use forced induction without a dished or negative dome piston. "Stacking" gaskets is a viable alternative but then you would lose ALL benefits of squench which is how these modern engines are able to sustain a high ratio with lower octane requirements. At first I was very upset at Dave Hughes for this 'snafu' I wanted a low ratio assembly and I have too much comp. for a blower/turbo. However now I feel this is a 'blessing' in disguise. The stock block should be avoided like the "bubonic plague" , thats what at least 3 pro-engine builders have told me (in reference to forced induction), with 500 cubes, a blower, a stock block even though it's girdled, will eventually fail above 800 H.P. So where or what does this all mean? Nothing except I wont be using any forced induction and have decided to pursue my 'challenge' of a flex fueled engine using an 'experimental' PCM, the Mega-Squirt by Bowling&Grippo. With the ratio I'm at, it would be perfect for E-85/Premium unleaded at 92-94 octane. I am sending the bearings to Calico but want to coat the pistons myself with tech line coatings from PowerHouse products.(skirts&Tops). I guess I should say, Thanks Dave Hughes!! (A simple mind like mine is easy to read)

I could also sell the pistons to someone else but Dave has honed and fitted those pistons to each repsective bore on my block. If I get new pistons I would have to have those fitted as well, too much money all ready! Current total is 3661.98 for everything so far and the shortblock is still in need of camshaft, oil pan, oil pump, girdle, casting or freeze plugs, fasteners, windage tray, lifters, timing chain.

well eddie with all that work done its a lot cheaper than we'll ever get it done over here probably 1/2 the price so your in front of us when budget is concerned
cheers ian

ianandjess wrote:well eddie with all that work done its a lot cheaper than we'll ever get it done over here probably 1/2 the price so your in front of us when budget is concerned
cheers ian

As always I have to take my hat off to you guys that do this stuff in a place other than here in the u.s..

Getting ready to order the Mega-Squirt PCM,(PowerTrain Control Module), and a G.M. Fuel Composition Sensor, a 3 wire pigtail and connector to that Sensor. The Sensor "tells" the Computer what the ratio of Alcohol to unleaded gas is in the tank. It also 'tells' the computer what the fuel temperature is. Then I will order more sensors as the system is configured. I have decided to use a Ford EDIS type of ignition with a G.M. Multi-Point port fuel type of induction. Currently file fitting the piston rings to their respective bores/pistons. Then I can mount the pistons to the rods. Icant install the crank until I get the girdle/stud kit form Dave Hughes,(thats what he machined and honed the mains for), but I am making progress. I also have much studying to do. I take my Certification exams Mon.

I 'picked' the camshaft today. I am thinking this one, Fast Rate of Lift, 242/248 @ .050 with 1.6 ratio rocker it gives .579/.600 lift at the valve, lobe seperation angle is 108. Intake opening is @ .050 16 BTC closing is 46 ATC solid lifter with oil through lifters to help lube the interface matching springs. I havent the money yet, just wish list. I may change these specs, I dont want a lumpy cam, smooth idle with a decent punch!

Eddie, when you have it all together, I'd like to know your choices in terms of intake manifold, injectors and injector location, fuel pump, fuel log, etc...

fbernard wrote:Eddie, when you have it all together, I'd like to know your choices in terms of intake manifold, injectors and injector location, fuel pump, fuel log, etc...

You will be the first to know my friend!

airfuelEddie wrote:I 'picked' the camshaft today. I am thinking this one, Fast Rate of Lift, 242/248 @ .050

That should idle OK on a 500 incher but will be a little lumpy.

One step smaller would be smoother but not as strong.

Dave, what cam would give a smoother idle but still produce decent power? I was thinking 440 Magnum specs but for an engine a little bigger. I may have to use Cam Help at Comp to have them pick one out for me. It's not set in stone. I will gladly use your recommendation! I'll be using fully ported 440source heads, 11.2 static comp. 9.6 dynamic with that cam I selected according to the Keith Black calculator. Thanks Dave

I would stick with that one Eddie. I think it will be OK. Very strong.

My own cam is 237/242 duration and sounds like its hot motor but still idles fine at 850rpm. Yours being 500 inches should work out about the same with that 242/248 cam.

dave-r wrote:I would stick with that one Eddie. I think it will be OK. Very strong.

My own cam is 237/242 duration and sounds like its hot motor but still idles fine at 850rpm. Yours being 500 inches should work out about the same with that 242/248 cam.

Thanks Dave, I'll have to keep in mind the H.P. rating of that cam and my software I am using. I dont want the injectors to overwork or approach static conditions. This can cause a lean out and burn pistons or worse. I am 'looking' at 500-550 H.P. I know this doesnt sound like much but I want to establish a 'baseline' first then future mods like bigger cams, injectors, re-programming the fuel tables will follow. I appreciate your advice cause I'm 'charting' some new territory here with the Flex fuel capabilities so a smooth but good running tune will be a big advantage in my pursuit of a turn-key no fuss no muss engine that makes excellent torque and is a pleasure to drive. I'm kinda glad that Dave H. ended up giving me more ratio than I thought I needed, a blower/turbo would get complicated real fast and there is less of a room for error in the tune due to the increase in manifold pressure and heat. The basics still apply regardless of fuel/spark management and for this I need all the advice I can get!

That cam will get you on the 550hp mark i am sure. The next step down in cam size will still get you in the 500-550 bracket but will be less agressive.

More pics. I am grinding any excess casting flash inside the block to aid in oil drainback, the interior will be coated with Glyptal and the exterior in Street Hemi Orange, I ordered the following items: ARP fastener Stretch Gauge for the con rods,(They have ARP2000 fasteners that require a .0075 stretch for proper pre-load), ARP assembly lube, Hemi Orange paint and primer), these U.A.S. freeze plug and plastic thread 'savers' are darned handy to keep paint off the areas you dont want it.

#2

Took a break from everything and the fact it was only 38 and spitting sleet/rain,(no heat in the shop), I couldnt find any peckerheads or Yellow morels, I went to see the Top Fuel Funny car of Team Napa/MoPar Ron Capps. The had the car 'buttoned up' no pics of the 500" alloy Hemi and huge fuel system but here it is anyways. I didnt realize how 'small' those cars are.

I think I could keep up with him 0-60ft times since I have 4wd. LOL

Bet the throttle response on Nitro is amazing!