The Dodge Challenger Message Board

7 years..30 people looking at it... 2 engine rebuilds! and a law suit later i still can't get my engine running right.. after all the trouble i bein through I went to the best guy in the area (best meaning most noted.. most expensive.. and he has his own Machine Shop on site.. unlike others.. but even the Master Engine rebuilder is stumped on this CURSED!! car.
its a 360 with a 650 Holly.. just a plain ole stock rebuild.. nothing fancy at all... after 2 years of the rebuild time and a 6K bill.. it was done. the engine was Dynoed and i knew i wasn't gonna have any more trouble.. i parked it for about 2 months untill i got the front end done.. and in the mean time as to not let the the gas settle and gum up as i had previous problems, i started it up and let it run to Operating tempeture..5 min MAX. i did this about once maybe twice a week... after i got it on the road.. just 200 miles.. smoke started to Below out of the dash and exaust.. took it back to him.. he was stumped.. he just got the engine apart today and said there seemed to be fuel getting into the oil and this is what burned out my new rings.. some wear on my walls to.. "but not bad" he said.. I told him the only thing i did to the car was let it idle a little once or twice a week.. he said that was my whole problem!... just letting the car idle and not running it on the raod.. caused more and more fuel to build up into the engine and once i finnaly did take it on the highway.. the rings blew, he said the oil doesn't get to squirt out the rods untill you really get it racing.. my question to you guys is, anyone ever hear of this problem?.. or am i just getting worked over yet again.. could i really blow an engine by starting it up every now and again to keep the battery full and the fuel flowing... he also recomend me to drown out the car to a stall with Mystery oil when i wanna let it sit for the winter months.. any advice or info would be a great help

When i first got it back from him... there was small hesitaion(yes on a dynoed engine!!) . he said he would want to adjust that once the warm weather came.. so after i got the front end done and the nice weather came around.. and i let it idle once or twice a week.. I finnally returned to him for the final adjustment.. .. about 2 hours after that adjustment is when the engine blew.. could it be a fuel adjustment error on his part and he's tring to cover his ass... again a 6K job

I feel for you man. That would highly upset me as well. I am not an expert by any means and try to learn something new everyday. However, I wouldnt think that idling a fresh properly broken in engine would cause scratches or wear in the cylinder walls unless one of three things happened. 1). The shortblock was improperly machined 2). The shortblock was improperly assembled 3). The 650 Holley,(I assume it's a Dual feed double pumper correct), had a mechanical problem dumping in raw fuel as it ran, but it would have to be a lot, I mean black smoke smelling and watery eyes the whole bit to do tht kind of damage. Highly unlikely that an expert with his own business would be incompetent but money does strange things to people. BTW, he isnt using chrome rings is he? They are indestructible but take a special finish and take forever to break in. What type of rings did he use? Are the pistons cast/hyper or forged?

There is some truth in what the guy was telling you.

If you start a car frequently without it getting to full operating temp or driving it you are going to add fuel to your oil, carbon to your combustion chamber, foul the plugs, and rot the exhaust.

It really is a bad thing to do. You are much better letting the car just sit. If you are talking long term storage drain the fuel out and throw it away.

Was this engine broken in properly before you parked it? I'm the farthest thing from an expert compared to the vast knowledge the guys here have but if you parked the car without breaking in the engine then your rings probably weren't seated correctly. Idling an engine up to operating temperature that's not properly broken in is an invitation to disaster IMHO.

Jesus mate thats sounds really frustrating I feel for you guy, Im in the same boat as you I guess...now without highjacking your thread my car has been sitting for a while and I also start her up from time to time without driving her due to some minor problems,

I seem to have sorted them out but my question is I havent driven her in a while so what will happen when I go on the road, what can I do to ensure she is ok, I dont want to cause her any damage due to my mechanical ignorance.

I hope you sort out the probs mate really I do, I used to feel really insecure when talking to mechanics about the car infact I will no longer go to a mechanic about the car in Ireland, I will load her up and go to the UK to dave and the boys for advice and info because aint no grease monkey gonna mess up my girl and charge me the earth for it!!

Besides the gaffer told me he'd mess me up if I let anymore monkeys at the car!!

RedRaven wrote:Besides the gaffer told me he'd mess me up if I let anymore monkeys at the car!!

Damn right.

Well Red. If you are worried about fuel in your oil try sniffing the oil and see if you can smell it.


I don't know if you can tell that way or not. I just like the idea of you standing there with your nose in the engine sniffing it.

We will see whos laughin when me and eddie have you fissed as a part at the pod next year...oh and I will have a camera!!

That will be the day sonny.

Fissed

Sorry Eddie..its a term used for drunk people....."Fissed as a Part"....now swap the first letter of Fissed with a P...and the first letter of Part with an F...then read it!!

Wait till we get Dave at the bar at santa pod mate,...yehhaawww!!

RedRaven wrote:Wait till we get Dave at the bar at santa pod mate,...yehhaawww!!

I can only imagine

I will be sure to bring bail money for all of us!!!

On the connecting rods there are oil weep holes on O.E.M. connecting rods. These are used to squirt oil on the thrust side of the cylinder walls,(right bank left bank outer walls), aftermarket rods omit this feature because it usually over oils the walls and with low tension rings and the increased wall clearance necessary with some forged pistons it can introduce oil in the chamber especially when cold or on start up at least until the pistons expand. He should have had plenty of oil if and only if the pressure was high enough,(it isnt at idle). So the engine builder could be correct, only Caparco knows for sure

RedRaven wrote:I will be sure to bring bail money for all of us!!!

I'll be sure to wear my turbine. Should keep us outta trouble

airfuelEddie wrote:

RedRaven wrote:I will be sure to bring bail money for all of us!!!

I'll be sure to wear my turbine. Should keep us outta trouble

Does that have a HEMI!!!

RedRaven wrote:

airfuelEddie wrote:

RedRaven wrote:I will be sure to bring bail money for all of us!!!

I'll be sure to wear my turbine. Should keep us outta trouble

Does that have a HEMI!!!

That's what I'll be screaming at the 'bobbies'

Allo Allo..what ave we got ere then me auld son...

That chick looks familiar! Santa Pod 07! Yep she's Holly!

Thanks for the tips guys! I guess we learn things the hard way.. ill be sure to treat the new engine the right way.

Fal.. the engine was broken in because it was Dynoed.. and thats the whole purpose of doing it

Dave.. thanks for your insite.. these old carburators are very touchy with fuel.. i guess this doesn't happen with the new injections.. you really have to stay on things

To the guy who was starting his engine too and worried... like Dave said.. smell around.. but just change the oil if questionable... its a much less expence!!

Thanks again for all your tips