The Dodge Challenger Message Board

airfuelEddie wrote:Sounds great Danny! I am glad to hear she wasnt damaged and you caught it before anything serious happened. I'm sure you meant bronze valve guides, and yes they are better. They are less sensitive to lubrication issues and wont seize as easily as cast iron guides. I would drain the oil before you put it up for your long winters. Good Job!

thanks eddie,yes it is bronze valve guides,i changed the wording on my other post. did another run this morning and it started very quikly so all is well. set the timing and she pures like a kitten. will take it for a ride as soon as this rain clears up.

Good news! Well done.

rtse4406pack wrote:

airfuelEddie wrote:Sounds great Danny! I am glad to hear she wasnt damaged and you caught it before anything serious happened. I'm sure you meant bronze valve guides, and yes they are better. They are less sensitive to lubrication issues and wont seize as easily as cast iron guides. I would drain the oil before you put it up for your long winters. Good Job!

thanks eddie,yes it is bronze valve guides,i changed the wording on my other post. did another run this morning and it started very quikly so all is well. set the timing and she pures like a kitten. will take it for a ride as soon as this rain clears up.

Man I'm really happy for you! I had mine out just a few minutes ago first time on my 'fresh' driveway. I was very tempted to leave a few black marks but I dont have much of a 'shutdown' area!

airfuelEddie wrote:

rtse4406pack wrote:

airfuelEddie wrote:Sounds great Danny! I am glad to hear she wasnt damaged and you caught it before anything serious happened. I'm sure you meant bronze valve guides, and yes they are better. They are less sensitive to lubrication issues and wont seize as easily as cast iron guides. I would drain the oil before you put it up for your long winters. Good Job!

thanks eddie,yes it is bronze valve guides,i changed the wording on my other post. did another run this morning and it started very quikly so all is well. set the timing and she pures like a kitten. will take it for a ride as soon as this rain clears up.

Man I'm really happy for you! I had mine out just a few minutes ago first time on my 'fresh' driveway. I was very tempted to leave a few black marks but I dont have much of a 'shutdown' area!

hey eddie car looks good on that fresh cement. took the car out and every thing is fine but car still needs some fine tuning. when i come to a stop and press the brakes it shuts the engine down sometimes,seems like i have to tune it better or the car just does not have enough vacuum. i also noticed the former owner has the vacuum line to the distributer plugged with a tiny ball right at the distributer vacuum canister i wonder why? should i take it out or leave it. any tips would be much appreciated. also i plan to take the car in for a professional tune up as i think it will make a big difference in performance as they have much better instruments of tools than i do!!

Leave the vacuum to the distributor disconnected and plug the source at the carb with a removable rubber plug.

Without the vacuum set your advance to 34 degrees @ 3500rpm. Then leave it alone.

Then set your idle mixture just to the lean side of max rpm (or the lean side of max manifold vacuum) with the trans in gear (auto only) and make sure the brake is on good while you do it!

Then with the trans in neutral again set your idle speed to 800-850rpm.

Now put a vacuum guage on the port that was connected to the distributor. There should be no vacuum there. Tell me if there is.

One other thing that might make it stall is the torque converter (auto only). Check that when you place the trans in drive the rpms of the engine do not drop very far. If they do, and you have to stand on the brake hard to stop the car driving off fast, then you need a higher stall converter.

dave-r wrote:Leave the vacuum to the distributor disconnected and plug the source at the carb with a removable rubber plug.

Without the vacuum set your advance to 34 degrees @ 3500rpm. Then leave it alone.

Then set your idle mixture just to the lean side of max rpm (or the lean side of max manifold vacuum) with the trans in gear (auto only) and make sure the brake is on good while you do it!

Then with the trans in neutral again set your idle speed to 800-850rpm.

Now put a vacuum guage on the port that was connected to the distributor. There should be no vacuum there. Tell me if there is.

One other thing that might make it stall is the torque converter (auto only). Check that when you place the trans in drive the rpms of the engine do not drop very far. If they do, and you have to stand on the brake hard to stop the car driving off fast, then you need a higher stall converter.

hey dave great tips but my car is a four speed car. any 4 speed tips?

A good "last thing to do" after you get the engine all back together is buy one of those half-cylinder magnets that goes on the oil filter and install it on the side of the filter before your first start-up. It will trap any ferrous particles (lost bits of cam and lifter in your case) entering the filter and keep them from circulating through your oil system

rtse4406pack wrote:hey dave great tips but my car is a four speed car. any 4 speed tips?

Yeah I had a feeling it was hence the "auto trans only" bits.

The rest of the post still stands. Just ignor the "in gear" bit and the stall speed bit. Your stalling will just be down to timing and poor idle. You may not even actually be on the idle circuits.

If the idle mixture screws do not seem to make much difference to the idle speed or manifold vacuum, or if you have vacuum on the port that fed the distributor can, then you need to make a slight modification to the centre carb.

rtse4406pack wrote:

dave-r wrote:Leave the vacuum to the distributor disconnected and plug the source at the carb with a removable rubber plug.

Without the vacuum set your advance to 34 degrees @ 3500rpm. Then leave it alone.

Then set your idle mixture just to the lean side of max rpm (or the lean side of max manifold vacuum) with the trans in gear (auto only) and make sure the brake is on good while you do it!

Then with the trans in neutral again set your idle speed to 800-850rpm.

Now put a vacuum guage on the port that was connected to the distributor. There should be no vacuum there. Tell me if there is.

One other thing that might make it stall is the torque converter (auto only). Check that when you place the trans in drive the rpms of the engine do not drop very far. If they do, and you have to stand on the brake hard to stop the car driving off fast, then you need a higher stall converter.

hey dave great tips but my car is a four speed car. any 4 speed tips?

Danny, after taking the R/T to the 'tuners' and it still doesnt run according to your wishes, contact me.

hi guys,tuesday i finally found a great guy to set my timing/carbs/points etc...
car now pures like a kitten and roars like a lion.
my god,these 6 pack 440 motors-when they run right they are unbelievable scary fast! but i like it.
i just cant get enough of driving my car,it is so much fun.
special thanks to eddie shram at ES automotive,the guy is truely an artist when it comes to the six pack cars.also thanks to all the guys on this forum for giving me tips as i rebuilt the top end. by the way david,the vacuum leaks where found,they where at the carburators. eddie put a new gasket kit on all 3 carbs and at the same time cleaned and replaced all the small hardware inside the carbs. it made a huge difference on how the motor ran. the owner before me just let the car sit way to long without any usage! going for another cruise-later

I am very happy for you Danny! Yes, it's very enjoyable to drive a sixpack car with the tune spot on! The Torque is amazing!