The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Hello,

I have installed my rocker arms (Harland Sharp, 1.6 - 440 engine), and on the passenger side, all of the arms rock back and forth with no effort (push rods are not in yet, having them custom cut). On the drivers side, nearly all are binding somewhat, yet move with a small amount of hand pressure. The heads are 452 castings, so the pedastals are cast in. I can see where the shim/washers on the rods ride agains the pedastal (see pictures below, much worse on the drivers side). All of the rocker tips seem to line up with the valves pretty well.

First question, like the heads, there is not a passenger or drivers side for rocker arm assemblies, right?

Second question, I suspect that there should be zero binding on these, do I need to buy a shim kit for these and adjust where needed on the drivers side only?

Harland website has very little tech support, just an observation.

Thanks again for all the help!!!

MLMFLCN wrote:First question, like the heads, there is not a passenger or drivers side for rocker arm assemblies, right?

Right. They are identical. But make sure the rocker shaft is the right way around so it oils correctly. I would also use a "banana groove" rocker shaft with this type of rocker.

Second question, I suspect that there should be zero binding on these, do I need to buy a shim kit for these and adjust where needed on the drivers side only?

You should have been advised to buy a shim kit.

The idea is to position the rockers so that the tip is exactly centered on the valve. Also the shims allow you to set the rocker side clearences up to a minimum (10thou-15thou) for better oil control and pressure where it is needed.

This shimming is a time comsuming task but well worth it. When done turn the engine over a few times to settle the rockers and check the clearences again. All the spacers between the rockers should turn with finger and thumb without binding.

Thanks Dave-R.

Right. They are identical. But make sure the rocker shaft is the right way around so it oils correctly. I would also use a "banana groove" rocker shaft with this type of rocker.

How do I tell if they are the right way around for oiling? Since this was a kit, I am assuming that the rocker shaft type is a banana groove like you mentioned. Can you tell from the picture I provided? If not, I'll shoot one from a better vantage point.

Thoughts on where to buy a shim kit, and what size shims to buy?

Thanks again Dave-R

In assembling the Rocker Shafts,(Mechanical or Hydraulic), position the shafts so the lubrication holes point downward and the 15 degree angle of these holes points outward towards the valve end of the rocker arms,(towards the exhaust flange as installed on the head). Shim kits can be had at www.Manciniracing.com or www.dvorakmachine.com BTW, noticed your dizzy drive shaft,(intermediate). Did you use the "good" one? MoPar Perf. as well as Melling makes Heavy Duty Pinned ones. The stock ones are simply pressed on! The H.D. ones are pressed and "pinned" to the shaft. This may make a big difference if you use a High Volume/Pressure oil pump and thick oil. I lost a small block this way once. Good Luck, Eddie

Thanks for the tips Eddie. I did use an MP piece, and a Melling pump too . One question, off topic from Rockers, when priming the pump prior to starting for the first time (bought an MP shaft for this). It seems you need to install the engine first, without the intake on, so that you can install the starter shaft into the oil pump. Is this right or am I missing something? I was planning on putting the carb and intake on prior to installing the engine, but am considering not doing this now.

Dave mentioned earlier in the thread that the shims are used to set the rockers side clearance at 10 to 15 thous. Is this measured only at the pedestals, or between each rocker arm and spacer? Also, with adjustable rockers, still torque the 5 bolts down to 25lbs?

Thanks again.

You can leave the intake/ carb on the engine. I think a lot of manuals use the slot on the intermediate shaft to "index" the dizzy with the slot for TDC, but this isnt necessary. Use the Damper to index TDC. Just make sure to turn the engine over slowly by hand to get oil up to the top end as you prime it. Without doing this the oil holes in the camshaft to the oil holes in the block wont line up thus preventing oil from reaching the rocker shafts. The oil holes in the camshaft jounals use timed oil supply as used in the con rods. The shims should be used between the rockers them selves and not the pedastels with the Harland Sharps I would assume but I havent used these types of Rockers before. Dave uses them however, and has a greater knowledge of this part. On the five Rocker Shaft Retaining bolts, yes I would evenly torque the fasteners as this will prevent binding and inaccurate torque readings and use the recommended 25 ft. lbs. as the O.E.M. shaft WILL bend at 30lbs. aftermarket Heavy wall shafts may accept more. But I would use the recommeded torque amounts especially if the fasteners are the same diameter.

Measure clearence between each pair of rockers.

Banana groove rocker shaft pictured (courtesy of Hughes Engines). The grooves give better oiling to help prevent galling on the shaft from the rockers.

Note the oilways are offset from the bolt holes? This is why you have to have the shafts the correct way around. See diagram.

I meant to respond to this sooner, but got busy. The oil holes on these are directly in line with the bolt holes. In talking to Harland Sharp, they confirmed this and added that they are interchangeable for that reason. Makes me nervous now, based on the oiling diagrams.

The shim kit did the trick. Thanks again for the advice.