The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Can anyone tell me why the engine cranks over with the key in the start position but the engine will not fire until the key is allowed to return to the run position?
Bob

jh27n0b wrote:Can anyone tell me why the engine cranks over with the key in the start position but the engine will not fire until the key is allowed to return to the run position?
Bob

I would say that it is because of a worn battery. The starter is taking all of the juice so there is nothing left for the ignition system. When the starter stops revving, then all the juice goes to the ignition sytem and your engine will fire.

I suggest that you choose "a little bigger battery", that is a 70Ah instead of a 60 Ah for instance. The Optima battery seems to be the toughest battery of them all, but it is quite costly though.

...another possibility is a worn ignition coil.

jh27n0b wrote:Can anyone tell me why the engine cranks over with the key in the start position but the engine will not fire until the key is allowed to return to the run position?
Bob

You may have a wiring problem.

On the 'crank' position, the ballast resistor is bypassed to give the coil more voltage. There are 2 wires going to the ballast resistor from the ignition switch. One comes from the 'On' terminal of the ignition switch, the other from the 'crank' terminal (the latter goes to the same side of the resistor as the positive coil wire). If the crank wire is cut/burnt/disconnected, you get no voltage to the coil while cranking.

I agree.

Thanks for the replies. Could it possibly be a faulty ignition switch? Does anyone know which color wire carries the current to bypass the ballast resistor?

Bob

Usually a brown wire that gets power when cranking. It runs from the key switch to the bulkhead connector (check the connector) and from the connector to the side of the ballast resistor that also connects to the coil +ve with a dark blue wire.

In this way the coil gets full battery voltage when cranking.

From the "run" position on the switch you should have another dark blue wire that again runs via the bulkhead connector to the other side of the resistor.
You might also have connectors that run to the alternator field and voltage regulator on that side.

Just a guess, maybe the relay on the fenderwall is bad. They are only ten bucks at Napa, $20 for the good one. I just replaced mine and carry another as a spare.

Thanks for all of the help. You guys are awesome. It turns out that it was the brown wire under the dash. The ignition switch connector to main harness connector was not making a good connection.

Dave, do you ever tire of being right?

Well I am leaving to take my car to the Indy Cylinder head show. If anyone is coming, I will be at the Indy Mopar Club booth.

Once again thanks to everyone who offered suggestions.
Bob

I will see you there Bob!!I should get there about 10:00 am and my brother and I are getting a 400 Block from a friend that needs some space and has an extra one. I am leaving the credit card home,(addict), so there wont be a problem there. Also, I want a set of Dodge Division Hubcaps for my 15" Police Steelies that I want to paint either black or red for the R/T they are too cool and functional! I just WANT!!

jh27n0b wrote:Dave, do you ever tire of being right?

A good question. The rest of us have a limitless feeling of happiness the few times we are 100% right.
Don´t you miss those moments, Dave?

My wife will confirm that in fact I am NEVER right.