The Dodge Challenger Message Board

What brand and range spark plugs do you guys run in your 440s? Mine is basically a hot street combo with Edelbrock 440 rpm alloy heads and comp cams 292/.509 xx fast rate of lift Chry. cam with of course the six-pack and tti's 1 7/8 in to 3" exhaust. I have been running NGK-5 v-groove plugs with decent results. I used to exclusively run Champion's in all Chrysler products.

I have run the stock specified Champion RN9YC on my 340 forever. Recently tried a set of RN11YC's to see if the eye burning fumes at idle would clean up. Increased detonation was the only noticable result with the hotter Champion plug so I went back to stock. My engine is pretty mild comparably though.

I know these are two differant motor designs just wanted to mention that the hotter plugs do increase detonation. When tested only the plugs were changed, no other modification from the previous run. It was a day or two between them though.

Stock plugs for the 440. http://big-dog.us/challenger/videos.html

Sounds of the noise maker. Some of the early ones were really off. Still not quite right as am having a problem with the old 750 carb.

http://ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=1078501&pid=3557

A bit more initial advance can clean up the idle quality as well if tuning does not work.

Jon, Dave and Big Al ,thanks guys I appreciate that. Jon you are right about that detonation. I have NGK-5 street plugs in it now and have never used them before. I have always used Champion like Jon, with great results. The Dyno shop that Modded my sixpack installed them. Also I noticed that a lot of Chrysler owners use Autolite's with great success. I think I am going to leave it alone since everything was "calibrated" with the NGK's and I will get a set of Champion RC-12YC 5/8 reach plugs for it as a back up along with a set of NGK-5's. My compression is 10.5 to one with Eddie's Aluminum alloy heads. Big Al that 440 sounds sweet. Jon do you have any pics of your 340? And did you ever get your Air cleaner housing picked out? Great to see you posting Dave.

Thanks for the flowers afe., and dave it is good to hear from you. hope you are getting better.

Hey Eddie. Sorry I didn't get back sooner been working alot lately. Here's a pic of my motor with the air cleaner setup. It is a Mr. Gasket hybred of the low profile lid and a 3" base unit. It has the PVC breathers I was looking for also. There is about 3/8" clearance to the hood so a wing nut is out of the question. I also installed a heat shield like Dave's.

The shine on the motor and compartment are a little tired. The 340 has been in there since 1989. Only about 15k on the engine though. And yes that is a Wal Mart battery there. It belongs to the boat. I swap it back & forth during the summer to keep it in good shape.

Dave, the maximum initial timing I can get without pinging is 10 degrees. The vacuum advance is connected to the base instead of the metering block port too. I believe the total at idle with vacuum advance is around 20. I'll have to check my records.

I installed a rebuild kit and found the power valve was blown again. Still fumes at idle but a little better. The vacuum at idle is 12 and the PW is a 6.5. I am thinking the PW should be higher? Maybe the pinging is from a lean condition do to the power valve circuit not coming into play early enough?

Thanks

Never never never NEVER connect the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum on a Mopar V8.

Your timing will be all over the place.

Dissconnect the vacuum and plug it. THEN set the timing. You want 34-35 degrees total like that and at least 12-14 degrees initial.

If you cannot get 12 degrees or more initial without going over 35 degrees total you need to take out some of the advance in the dizzy.

After you have all that set THEN you can connect the vacuum canister but you MUST conect it to the spark timing port on the carb and not manifold vacuum.

Also check you have no vacuum on the spark port at idle. If there IS vacuum there you have not got the throttle closed enough. If you cannot do that without loosing to many idle rpms then there are two ways to get around that. Let me know if that is the case and I will fill you in.

Get this right and you will really feel the difference in throttle response and acceleration.

Jon, nice looking 340! Man, I love those engines, had one in my 1973 Plymouth RoadRunner,(this pic is in 1979 and I wish I still had the bird). What kind of cam is in there Jon? Dave is right on in his tuning recommendations. PowerValve should be on a stock engine 6.5-10.5. with 10-18 inches of vacuum. You dont want the PV prematurely opening.If it does it will run rich, maybe you need a higher number Power valve. Whats in it now? Smart move "rotating" the batt.

Dave, I recently had the dizzy recurved and the tag says 34 total though I have not checked it. The initial is suppose to be 12. I was told to use the manifild vacuum port but if you say thats not right I will change it back to the metering block. As it is now though the initial timing with the canister connected would be in the 20's? Is that way to much advance at idle? There is no vacuum at the meter block port at idle so all is well in that regard.

Don't tire yourself responding to my ramblings though Dave. Wouldn't want your wife coming in and taking away your computor privileges.

Eddie thanks for the advice. That's a nice car you had there. How did the 340 run in that year, did you hop it up? Too bad you sold it. I bet that will never happen to the Challenger.

I took a few pictures at my friend the other day. I figure everyone likes pics so...

Thanks for the picture of that beautiful 70 Challenger Jon. That paint sure looks nice and compliments the Rallye wheels. Is that your car? The 1973 RoadRunner was an original Limelight colour car with the low comp. 340 which had been castrated by 1973. It did have the original 800CFM Thermoquad which combined with a purple shaft 284/484 hyd. and headers. That cam/carb combo fouled out my plugs every week! Of course I didnt' know that much about Hi-perf. When I had fresh plugs in it, it beat a lot of cars but would lose to a big block 383 RoadRunner or almost any hot E-body I wish I still had that car but you know how that goes. I sold it after that pic was taken to a high school friend who promptly totaled it in a ditch while consuming mass quantities of cheap Ale. No Jon, this time I found the car of my dreams and it's staying the course!

Has anybody used these. NGK-GR4GP Platinum Plug's. I have these in mine. Usually a Bosch Guy. What do you think. Pat

I know use NGK's in both my MoPars Pat. I used to use Champion but they wouldnt stay in 'tune' very long. Neither did the Bosch plugs. After switching to the NGK's both vehicles 'seem' to 'like' them better and both vehicles stay crisp and run hard and clean with them. I think I'm gonna use em in the Diesel, ha

Thank's Eddie. But doe's that number mean anything to you? NGK-GR4GP. I think these are working for me. I also think the guy behind the counter was Bonging out before I got there. I know because, I used to be a PRO, now retired. He said these are great but, Looked a little foggy and unsure. I baught them anyway. I think I mentioned on another thread, that the exhaust shop busted three of my spark plug's pulling my old header's and needed plug's as soon as I saw what happened. Oh yeh, the car ran fine but, I found broken plug's. Can't have that. I'm probably just being my picky self. But was wondering if anybody used this particular plug #? Just being anel, again.... Pat

Pat, I dont recall those numbers. The NGK's use a single grounding strap then they have the V-groove strap as well as the Platinum and iridium types. Confusing to say the least. Also with NGK's the higher the number the colder the plug. This has also caused some confusion. I pulled a plug the other day. It looked nice and tan, good burn going on there. Pat have you been to their site,(NGK), and cross refenced that plug you bought from Cheech and Chong? With the old Bosch plugs you used to run? In other words how does that NGK compare to the heat range of your older Bosch plug that you used to use. Mine are NGK-FR5(V-Groove)

Thank's Eddie, I'll check in to it. L.O.L. The plug's are a pretty nice tan color though. I'm being picky. I'll check that Also, do you think those V-groove plug's are worth all the Hoopla? Talk to you soon, Pat

I did until I attended an electronics course. No, it's marketing hype. Current takes the path of least resistance.The heat range and insulator height plus quality materials are what really matters! In the old days we changed plugs for fresh ones before the weekend! I like NGK's,(V-groove), Autolite, Bosch, champion. Ive never used iridium, or the multi tipped four prong tipped stuff that Bosch uses and others employ. I dont keep my plugs in any longer than 6 months to a year max then fresh ones go into it. Old habits die hard.

Sound's like good advise to me. I'll keep these through the new year. Check them, then switch them out, if need be. I know your not a big Bosch fan but, alway's ran them in the Cuda', still have them in the Ford G.T.390 as well. O.K., it a 68 pickup but, it has a Mach One power plant. Anyway, on these two vehicle's, those Bosch plug's were good for about 50,000 mile's. Like you said, old habit's die hard. I'm willing to change though. I am a Hick, or is that redneck but, Japanese part's or plug's don't bother me. Take care, Pat

Pat, I couldnt keep the Bosch plugs from fouling out bad in my PowerWagon. They are terrific plugs just not for my application. Robert Bosch corporation has all my repect! They make some very fine products. A lot of my injection equipment for my Diesel Ram 4x4 are Bosch made. I dont now why it doesnt work that way Pat? My engine, 5.9 Magnum in my other Dodge Truck, just doesnt like them I guess. It runs clean and crisp with the NGK's so I use them and they are less expensive than the Bosh plugs. RedNecks are OK, I live in a 40k home, have 3 vehicles 1 car and 2 trucks and of course a Jeep. Do I qualify? Oh, and I keep my shootin irons and engine parts,(all Challenger, after all I am civilized), in my bedroom. I eat Brie cheese, Baugettes, drink Earl Grey.(It's the only real tea), BTW Pat, love that poster/call out do you have an original?I have a 1970 R/T Dodge Challenger version. Want to see it?(thePoster).

Eddie, I have always liked autolite plugs and run them in everything I own (except the Audi Wagon) never any problems. Just my 2 cents.

Yes Eddie, you qualify! No, I don't have an original. That one was a copy I was thinking about getting on ebay. Something more to clutter up my garage wall's. Hell yah! Let's see that 1970 poster.

Here you go Pat. It's encased in clear thin plastic. Original 1970 Challenger R/T dealer promo ad:

I tried to get a micro shot, of the lettering, it's pretty cool: "Or choose the haulin Hemi" the ad shows a Shaker car! Although, Barry or Dave would know about this, the N-96 cars were sometimes a 6 months wait! They ran out of Shaker bubbles in 70. Also the Shaker is body color. Mine is not. It's probably not correct according to the'experts' on Moparts.com. I dont care, the black Shaker on my car can be traced back until 1978 when the original owner died. It was black then and will stay black. " 1970's all new hi-performance pony car. It borrowed from No One" Completely new from the wide stance up. And the scoop drops a hint. The Pony has a mean streak. Like a 383 Magnum V-8. Light it up and you'll get a quake of four barrel thunder. Or things get a might stormier with the 440 Magnum V-8...or the all out haulin Hemi...ChallengerR/T hasall the other going goodies too 3 on the floor full synchro manual tranny HDdrum type brakes..wide tread tires Ralleye Suspension with sway bar Rallye instrument cluster..bright dual exhaust tips..3.23 axle ratio Brand new optional 440 sixpack three Holley two barrels vibrating under the new shaker hood,(an option to soon be available)...Pretty cool huh!

I think it's funny how Ma moPar 'slams' Ford Motor co. with "This Pony has Horses" probably referring to the mustang not having a v-8 engine offered when it first came out. I guess v-8 power wasnt the priority. Cheesy appearance was! Ironically, the mustang was fully castrated by the time the Charlies Angels edition came out in the mid 70's!Thankfully MoPar never resorted to that sleasy marketing POS. Ha

Very nice Eddie. But I wish I could read wat it say's. I think we both need new camera's.

I think the operator is whacked! My camera was the best offered at the store I bought it at. His "store" is usually parked down the street next to the bus station in town, I'll have to go down to him and ask him if he has a "tech" dept.

How many year's ago was that?

Seriously, Pat. I got this camera at a going out of business sale. Hill's dept. store. About 5-7 years ago

I think we both need to update our camera's. More Pixel's, less money now day's.