1970 440 magnum distributor problem • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Matt6767** » 02 Aug 2005 19:18

i have a 1970 440 and the distrubitor on it has a "retard" thing on it for when the engine slows down or is at idle...if someone could tell me what it is for that would be good...and also it is not hooked up. there are two wires comin out of it and we don't know where they are supposed to go. And would this effect the way that it runs?

Thanks Matt

by **dave-r** » 02 Aug 2005 20:45

I have a feeling I have heard of these before but it was many many years ago and my memory is not that good these days as anyone here will tell you! :oops:

I have a feeling it was a retard for easier starting or to help prevent run-on when switching off. Something like that.

Are you sure it is not an electronic distributor with the two wires for the iginition control unit?????????

If not I have one simple solution for you.

Put it in the trash and get an electronic ignition system. I have a pet HATE of points-type ignitions. It is well founded believe me.

Get yourself more power, longer lasting plugs, better easier starting from cold, reliability, etc, etc, etc The advantages over points is endless.

In the short term run without them connected.

by **Matt6767** » 05 Aug 2005 8:54

we have been leaving the wires un-done for now. But we have been messing around with the metering rod springs. Well we have only put i equal pair in instead of one streched out and one normal and that seemed to help alot. Would lighter springs help it more?? The only problem that it has is when its at idle and you punch it it backfires thru the carb. But if you get the rpms up just a little bit it runs awesome. So im a little confused about what to do.

Thanks Matt

by **dave-r** » 05 Aug 2005 9:37

Metering rod springs are in the carb. You mean the mechanical advance springs.

Set total advance (with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged at the carb) to 35 degrees at 3000rpm. If you find the advance still increases over 3000rpm your springs are too heavy and you need lighter springs so that your TOTAL advance comes in by 3000.

Then see what your idle advance is. If it is less than 12 degrees you need to take some advance OUT of the weights by limiting the amount they can move.

12 degrees at idle is the minimum that you are aiming for with 35 degrees the max at 3000rpm. Anything up to 18 degrees at idle is OK but really it depends on how wild your camshaft is so unless it is wild keep closer to the 12 degrees. I am always happy with anything between 12 - 14 degrees.

Then check that you are in initial advance up to about 1500rpm and that you have about HALF of the advance in by 2300 - 2400rpm.

Once that distributor is set up like this any problems are down to your carb tuning.

Make sure you use a good dial-back timing light and an accurate tach to read the rpms. The factory tach is no good.

by **Matt6767** » 06 Aug 2005 8:07

i know the metering rods are in the carb that is what i was talking about. We have the timing set good, but we knew that the metering rod springs were streched and not the same. So i am wondering if the lighter ones would make a differance or not..just a thought maybe. I think the heaviest ones are in them now..but right off the go it kind of chokes out..i dunno if that would do it or not..has anyone every messed with those very much??

Thanks Matt

by **dave-r** » 06 Aug 2005 9:22

Oh well I get confused easily you see. If you have a topic about your distributor and we are talking about your distributor I will get confused if you through in a carb question from left field!!

The metering rod springs are normally selected by the amount of vacuum you have at idle. I don't have the chart that comes with the carb but in it it tells you which spring to use and how to select it. But too weak and they will open at idle causing surging. Too strong and they will not open when you need them as you suspect.

Maybe the Edelbrock or Carter web sites will have that information?

In any case you need to be sure the distributor curve and timing is correct before you tune the carb.

by **Matt6767** » 06 Aug 2005 17:45

I will try to find a chart somewhere that will give me some kind of place to start. Sorry if that was confusing, i should of made it easier to understand. Thanks for the help tho..i will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks Matt

by **dave-r** » 06 Aug 2005 18:27

You can't make things too simple for me Matt. I am away with the fairies half the time. :s006:

by **Matt6767** » 09 Aug 2005 6:26

hello
i set the timing how you explained and that made alot of difference. I was at 8 but put it to 12 and helped alot. But i have another question for ya..I know you will probably not like this because it has to do with points!...but the book that i have says the dwell should be set at 30 and the point gap at 18. But to get the dwell at 30 the point gap is alot lower than 18...so which one should i go with???

Thanks Matt

by **dave-r** » 09 Aug 2005 7:29

Use the dwell reading.

Trying to set the timing by measuring the points gap is going to get you in the ballpark at best.

Read my thread on points at http://challenger.mpoli.fi/forum/viewto ... ?p=192#192

First chance you get throw that dizzy in the trash and get an electronic ignition.

by jr » 10 Aug 2005 6:47

You can find Carter AFB and Edelbrock Performer (1403, 1404, 1405, 1406, 1407, 1409, 1410, 1411, 1412 and 1413) manuals from here. http://challenger.mpoli.fi/forum/viewtopic.php?p=21503

I just posted scan of manuals that came with new Edelbrock performer couple weeks ago. I haven't checked but you can probably find same or similar information from Edelbrocks website as well.