[Christer (Christer)]

I have had problems with worn threads in the heads (where the headder bolts are attached). I have solved this with a couple of helicoil inserts. Unluckily, I didn´t use any anti-leak solution on the outside of the helicoils (As far as I know, it is not possible to get them out in any way). I intend to use some (a lot!) anti-leak solution when I assemble the headders to the engine. I want to have as small problems with leakage as possible (of course).

The thing I am wondering about is if it would be wise to use studs instead of bolts. Studs will make the problems with too litte space in this area even more apparent, but they would hopefully decrease the hazard of leakage problems!? Any suggestions? All ideas appreciated. BTW, am I the only one with leakage problems around headder bolts?

[Dave-R (Roppa440)]

I have fond on a couple of occasions that I have not put enough sealer on the threads of the bolts and have had to re-do them.

Just ignoring the problem leads to header gasket damage. The headers get hot so quickly any trapped water in the gasket turns to steam and blows the gasket.

The bolt holes in the heads get larger over time due to corrosion making the problem worse.

Studs would be the best solution (as they came from the factory) but getting headers on the engine in an e-body with studs is impossible. It is hard enough without them!

[JackT]

I'm asking about this because I am new to the header thing. I have bought TTI ceramic-coated headers for the R/T SE's 440. The engine will be going into the car from the bottom as part of the engine/trans/K-frame assembly, so getting the headers into the car is not a problem. My question is whether to use the factory-style studs and nuts or a set of stainless steel bolts to mount the headers. I am concerned about having to change the exhaust gaskets if a leak develops and I prefer to do so without breaking the seal to the coolant area in the cylinder heads. Advice from those of you with header experience would be appreciated - thanks.

[dave-r]

There is no way to get the headers off, once the engine is in the car, if you use studs. You cannot pull the headers far enough to the side to clear the studs. Because you will have to remove the studs anyway you are better off using bolts to start with. That way to change a gasket you just remove the bolts and the gasket will just slip out. No need to undo the collectors even.

Use a thick copper or aluminium gasket. No sealer on the gasket. Just make sure the exhaust port faces are clean and flat. Same on the header flange.

Put sealer on the header bolts and tighten up nice and even from the center out-over. TTI headers have a good thick flange and seal very well. If you do all the above you should not have problems.

Let us know if you do Jack.

[HemiRick]

Big block exhaust bolt/stud holes do not go into the water jacket like the small blocks so coolant leaks are not an issue with them. You can use either bolts or studs but if you use studs hope the hearders do not have to come out after the engines in the car.

[moparmaniac (owner4)]

I beg to differ!!! Go ahead and pull the two outer bolts/ studs on each side of your big block and get your bucket ready!!!

[dave-r]

It is only the end two studs/bolts on small blocks that go into the water jacket. ALL the studs on a big block go into the water I think.

[Follicly Challenged]

It ain't all that "correct" to say, but sometimes a coupla cans O' bars leak is easier than monkey'ing around with studs, especially if you've had to heli-coil some worn head exhaust holes on an E body, yes, they go to water on BB mopars on all 6 exhaust holes.
Use the bars leak until they plug up and quit leaking, then you can usually drain and get it outa the system to make yourself feel better if it bugs 'ya.
BB Chevs have a similar problem with their head bolts in the block going to water and eventually wearing to produce leaks out and on the floor. No fun telling a customer who just spent 20 grand on his mill to put some bars leak in it but thats sometimes the "nature of the beast"
But then again the bowtie guys expect a "slobbery running" motor that drips crap all over the place.
tehehehehe !

[Kowalski_72]

I just fitted Dynomax headers to mine today,it was some job,but got there in the end,only thing was,I had to undo the drivers side engine mount,and jack up the engine.All went Ok,after taking out the starter,steering cross arm,and the oil filter.Onlt thing was, once the headers were in place ,you can't get the engine mounting bolt back in! I'll have to grind off the captive nut from he front of the mount,and put the bolt in facing the rear....or is there another way? I've still got to weld up the flanges,so it's not totally finished yet... I'm happy with how high they sit,higher even than the stock pipes At least I got a good look under the car,and was pleasantly surprised how good it is!

[dave-r]

you can't get the engine mounting bolt back in!

I have not come across that one before but I don't personally know anyone who has fitted this make of header in an e-body before either.

Surely you can get the bolt back in while the header bolts are still loose and you can move the heades around some? I usually just put the very end two bolts in a short way (with no sealer) so I can swing the headers around a bit until everything is back in place. Then I slip the header gasket in place (easier with the valve cover removed) and run the rest of the bolts in (with sealer) until they are just snug. Then I pull out the two end bolts and put sealer on them and torque the whole lot up.