The Dodge Challenger Message Board

You need either a long leg extension to reach the pedal (very handy thing is a leg extension) OR you could make a friend and get him/her to press the pedal for you?

Then when you are sure it is coming fully open you can set the length of the kickdown rod.

Do you know how to set this? It was discussed on the MMA board so I can copy it and post it here if you like.

Would be handy Dave if you can post the copy from the MMA board, thanks. I let press a friend the pedal for me and the only thing I saw was fuel floating into the carb. But should EXACTLY happen when pressing the pedal...?? The only thing I know is that there should be fuel floating into the carb, but should there happen anything else ?

Just check that when the pedal is pressed, you cannot move the throttle linkage, the bit where the cable meets the carb, any further towards the bulkhead, if you can it's not opening all the way

I have written a description of how to adjust the kickdown lever in 'Technical/Transmission' for you Hans. I know reading this in English is not so easy for you so let me know if you want me to explain more.

Thanks Dave & Alex, I checked if the carb fully opens and yes it does fully opens. I will look for that shifting point this weekend.

Plans are changed, I gonna pull out the engine next month and totally rebuilt it; new gaskets, paint, new edelbrock camshaft kit,carb and manifold, timing chain set and some nice headers. So it should running fast after the rebuilt... Anybody knows some good headers ? ceramic finish or some other nice finish.

Will that be the performer cam/intake or the performer RPM?

The ceramic finish is the only one you should go for. Hedman headers are good for the price.

If I'm right the performer RPM, but I'm not sure, cause I only asked an indication price of the parts. Why should I only go for the ceramic finished headers ? Just for the looks ? What do you think I should take, performer or performer RPM ? Why...

thanks

The performer has more torque so it pulls better at low revs. It makes the engine feel strong. The RPM cam and intake will give more power but it is up the revs a bit so you don't feel it until you drop a gear and floor it. It has less torque than stock at the low revs.

In general - the hotter the cam - the higher up the rpm scale peak torque is. On a hot street car I would go for the RPM intake and either the RPM cam or one of another make with similar spec. If you do not want the expense of a high stall torque convertor or want to drive this a lot on the street you will need to be conservitive with your cam.

I decided not to get the ceramic coated headers because I reasoned that I could replace my standard headers three times for the cost of one pair of coated headers.

My next pair will be coated though. Better looks, more power and last longer.

Camcoat Dave, really good stuff, if ya want I will take a close up piccy of the Lolas exhaust this weekend and post it oop

Just ordered the parts, it is the Edelbrock performer package including camshaft kit, manifold, carburator, timing set (double roller). And then at the same time rebuilding it with new gaskets and "the scales which holds the crankshaft". Also adding a pair of Hooker Super competition headers (ceramic finished}. This combined with small tyres and an at least we think it has a low rear end ratio should give a nice accelaration/look with the light small blocked challenger.

Just an update. Pulled out the engine last friday. Not a hard job. Also pulled out the starter, it's a totally chromed one...quesse the previous owner had enough money, you don't even see that thing when installed. Next month the engine is gonna be rebuilt with some new stuff. Today I repainted pulleys, steering pump and everything else. Should give it a nice show look when the engine is back in. (will post a pic when ready) combined with the ceramic finished hookers. Yeah, I'm going for the 350...400 hp. Last week I met a guy with an Olds 442 with a 'nice' 455 equipped with NOS...sweet isn't it. Maybe next year to install something like that.

Don't paint the back face of the pulleys as a bit of uneven paint can cause a vibration. I found this with my crank pulley. I had painted the crank balancer. After cleaning the paint off where the back face of the pully touches it I found a bad vibration I had was much reduced.

At the moment I am putting all the pulleys and brackets and the rest of it back on the engine, but I kind of forgot where a couple of brackets should be installed. dumm, I know... So does anybody have some pics or scans from a workshop so I can see where everything should be installed on a small block. That would make it a lot easier for me. Many thanks!!

Hans, I have a 318 with all PS & ALT brackets still on the engine. It is on the floor of my shop & I would be glad to send you a digital picture of it - but I am not sure how to load a picture on to this site. I suppose I could follow the instructions or I can e-mail it to you if you send me your e-mail address.

OK Johnny-D, my email adress is hbuynink@kabelfoon.nl It would be a lot easier for me to build up everything again if you can email me that picture with all the brackets still on. So many thanks in advance.

Dave, would it be any trouble to put in a 360 crank into a 340 block?

You could do it. I don't know what, if any, pistons are available to do this.

More information.
The 318 and 340 cranks have 2.5" journals. The 360 has 2.812 journals. I am sure you could get these cut down but the 340 crank was a forged item and the 360 a cast.

The 360 has the same casting core as the 340 but with extra material cast into the main webs to allow for the larger journals.

So what I am gathering from what you are saying is; it is alot of trouble to do so. Pistons, and you should know Dave, can come in any size and shape needed. Now days Dave, you can get a forged, even billet, 360 cranks from just Mopar performance alone, not to mention uncut cranks that you can have custom cut to you specs, so yes it would not be too hard to put a 360 crank in to a 340. Dang it, I lost and forgot the displacement formula that you gave me. Lets see if I can remember. It is pie X bore radius squared then X stroke X 8 cylinders, now is that right Dave?

I will do the math later, I HAVE to go to bed. I am just about commatosed as I write this.

All I am saying is that it is possible. I don't know if someone makes a kit to do it or not. Yes you could get pistons but I don't know if they are easy to get off the shelf or if you would need to get them custom made.

Go to bed and give us all a rest!
Why don't you read some books on building small block engines? There are a lot of them about. This is the best way to learn. Asking one question after another on and on is wasting both my and your time. It will take forever to answer all the questions you come up with that could easily be answered if you read any one of those books.

When you don't use what you know, you end up forgeting it in time. Just think of me as a daily reminder, someone to bring out all that interesting and fasinating info that people want to know about, yes?

Can anybody please tell me the force in ft/pounds ,or something like that, I have to tighten the next things: main bearing rods, connecting rods and the oil pump bolts? I need to know to do a good rebuilt of a 340 engine. Thanks in advance guys.

The 1970 manual tightening reference chart says main bearing caps, 85 ft/lbs; connecting rod nuts - plain, 45 ft/lbs; oil pump attaching bolt, 35 ft/lbs; oil pump cover bolt, 95 inch/lbs. I forget if that's your year Hans - hope it helps.

I think it would be the same for these years, if not, almost the same. So I will use this reference. Thanks jack

Hans let me know what other specs you need.

I just replaced the main bearings, the connecting rod bearings and a new oil pump so i think I don't need more specs at the moment. The only others I could use, if they are in your tighting reference, are the bolts which connects the trans (727tf) with the 340 (Internal and external don't know the names of these components) and for the oil pan. Then I think I have what I need.
Thanks Jack

oil pan screws - 200 inch pounds
clutch housing bolts - 30 foot pounds
converter drive plate to crankshaft bolt - 55 foot pounds
transmission to clutch housing bolts - 50 foot pounds

These torque specs are good for both the 727 and the 904

Just thought I would throw in a pic of the engine after the rebuilding this summer.



Oh, sorry Joel, again not 600x800. Then the format was to big.