Choke Thingy • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Sf (Sf)** » 01 Sep 2002 17:43

Under the carb on the passenger side is where the choke coil resides. It sets in a preformed "can". That can is suppose to enclose the coil and keep the coil out of the actual exhaust gases. That can has been destroyed by the idiots that owned my car before me. Any idea where I can purchase another? Or a part number? Or better yet, do one of you have one?
Thanks

by **Sf (Sf)** » 01 Sep 2002 17:50

Sorry, '70 Challenger, 440 4 bbl

by **Sf (Sf)** » 05 Sep 2002 3:19

Wow, no response. This list always has a response. Well, incase I came upon something that is most unusual, here is my take, from other lists.

"Mopar Performance has this listing, I have pasted it in from the web site (moparperformance.com) but I am sure it is in their catalog also, should be able to get a dealer to look this up for you:

HEADS AND INTAKES

Manifold Sealing and Attachment Hardware-"A" & "B" Engine

Package includes the choke cup, gasket and two screws. Does not include a choke.

P5249639 Slant 6, "A", "B/RB" and Hemi

Pic attached...........

Attachment: p5249639.jpg
This has been downloaded 6 time(s)."

I had no idea this thing was that rare.

Toodles

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 05 Sep 2002 7:56

I always block off the heat passage in the intake and use a electric or manual choke or no choke at all.

by **Sf (Sf)** » 08 Sep 2002 13:42

How do you block it off? I would have liked doing that. And still can with a new valley gasket.

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 08 Sep 2002 16:18

Somebody asked about this just last week on another message board. This is what I told them;

Some builders claim they have seen 10hp on the dyno just by blocking off the heat passage.

It not only keeps the intake air cooler but also keeps the carb and fuel cooler too. Which is my main reason for doing it. Ever since I used to run a polished ally manifold and carb. Ally is a great conductor of heat. My fuel used to boil in the carb when you switched off. You could hear it!

You can get intake gaskets with that area already blocked off. In the past I have blocked it off with ally plate and epoxy resin in the intake. On the current 6-pack manifold I welded them shut.

Bare in mind two things. If you use a thermostatic choke this may not be a good idea. Try an electric choke or no choke at all.

The other point is of course that if you block it off and still run the original cast headers with the butterfly valve for this system you are going to have a lot of trouble unless you weld the butterfly open.

by **Hans (72challenger)** » 08 Sep 2002 16:56

Just cut a can of 7up in pieces and put a piece between the gasket and the heads, then bolt on the manifold and ready you are!

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 09 Sep 2002 8:45

I would be worried about getting a good seal around the intake ports doing it that way Hans.

by **Hans (72challenger)** » 09 Sep 2002 10:42

The material between the heads/manifold is so thin, you won't even feel/notice a difference in thickness Dave, just also use a little 'seal out of a can' between the heads/intake and it will seal just fine.

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 09 Sep 2002 10:49

Good tip Hans. Thanks.

by **Sf (Sf)** » 12 Sep 2002 1:39

Well, how about another challenge. I have found the right part number for this block off, now I get to find it. But, here is my current problem.

The cam runs and sounds great. I mean, great. And idle is great and low spead is great. But, when I nail it, it goes flat. I checked to insure the carb plates are not hitting anything. and I have played with the timing. This thing will go flat a full open. I just checked it in the garage, without an air cleaner. It almost seems like there is gas coming up from the carb. Like the new cam I just installed is flat. Ideas?

by **Hans (72challenger)** » 12 Sep 2002 7:51

Well, I'm sure the cam isn't flat as you said it runs and idles great...a flat cam won't. I'm not so knowledged (not yet) about fuel/carb things so hopefully somebody else can help you...

Oh BTW Dave, did I convinced? you with the block off?

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 12 Sep 2002 10:37

Sounds like the accelerator pump is not working. Check the ball valve is in place and the diaphram is ok.

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 12 Sep 2002 11:32

Next time I need to block an intake off Hans I will look at that. But I welded the intake I use now.

With having the heads shaved a little but not the intake it is hard to get the intake bolts in. Any extra thickness in the gasket might make that even tougher and if the tin was overlapped onto the gasket the intake face is no longer a good even seal onto the head. I might try cuting out a section of the intake to fit around the bit of tin can if I was doing it.

by **Sf (Sf)** » 12 Sep 2002 13:07

One t hing I might have not said, at full open or full throttle, the rig seems to loose power and is running flat. Might even be a bit of not quite back fire. It seems to not be getting air or fuel, but with the throttle wide open, I would have guessed it would run like a stripped ••• ape.

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 12 Sep 2002 13:38

Lack of fuel mate. Restricted fuel line, blocked filter etc.

by **Hans (72challenger)** » 12 Sep 2002 15:06

When you use a tin can to block of the heat crossover first put a little bit of seal around the crossover, then place the piece of tin can, put a bit more seal on/around the piece and place the intake gasket and the intake like you normally would do.

With installing my intake the first time I also had quit some troubles with the intake bolts; my heads were shaved also. You can go the expensive and best way and let a shop shave off your intake also or go cheap and make/shave your bolt holes in the intake a bit bigger so the bolts will fit just fine. I went the cheap way cause there aren't many machine shops around here who have any experience with the kind of parts we would deliver them.