The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Hey, I just picked up a set of solid Moroso motor mounts for my 383 because my stock mounts are broken . Just wondering what it consist of replacing the motor mounts. ( take headers off, etc) can you get to them if the car is on a lift, or can it be a drive way project? Just wondering so I know what im in for since im new to mopars. Thanks
Nick

I don't think you have to take anything off the engine. Maybe just drop the exhaust pipes.
Just unbolt them and jack the engine up off the old ones. Some of the bolts you can reach from above. Some from below with the car on axle stands. Use a big bit of wood between the engine and jack to make sure you don't bend the oil pan or something.

Hi Nick. I have had so many engine mounts break over the years, i got fed up with changing them. But i'm not sure fitting solid mounts is the best answer.

I now use the original mounts, but with a 'torque strap'. Essentially a rod with a rubber mounted eye at each end, with one end fixed to the chassis and the other fixed to the engine. (on my car, to the back of the power steering pump bracket. It can barely be seen unless you are looking for it. It has the advantage of keeping the engine sitting on rubber mounts (and in my case, still 'shaking' in the shaker hood) but they don't break any more.

I use the stock-looking type that has a tapered pin inside that locks solid as the engine moves over. The factory torque strap is still in place on my car but it is hopeless as it is too long.

I would never use solid mounts on a car that sees any use on the street.

If you can find the Schumacher ad in one of the Mopar magazines. They advertise an excellent torque strap,- not really a strap, but a rod with rubberised eye on each end, complete with fitting kit. Brilliant.

I agree with Dave. I wouldn't use solid mounts on a street car.

Dave. The factory didn't fit a torque strap!

Really?

My understanding was that some engines (like 440+6) came with a small steel cable mounted to the bolts top and bottom of the drivers side engine mount. I have seen this on another car apart from mine and there is nothing 'home made' about the fit so I assumed it was factory. I am sure I have read somewhere about this strap too.

Worth looking into.

News to me Dave.

I have had several 6-pack and Hemi cars, and i've never seen a factory torque strap.

I must have made it up in my head then! I do seem to remember looking into this when I first got the car. I can't remember where I asked or read about it but I have a strong feeling it was a 440+6 and 440 mag HP2 engines. Maybe I dreamt it Jim! I am mad you know!

Shame. And at such a young age!

Dave. You mention you use the stock looking mount that has an extra bolt or something. I haven't seen one of these yet, but i assume it operates to compress rather than stretch the rubber. Is that the way it works?

I have to use a torque strap (rod) on the Hemi because the new improved stock looking, unbreakable type mount is not available for the Hemi as yet.

Hey guys, im opting to use the solid mounts because the factory ones just break to easily. My 383 is pushing 500hp and the factory mounts dont withstand. Yes I'll be driving it on the street a lot but the track also. If i dont like the solids I'll look into the strap type mounts. I never knew there was such an animal.Still havent put them in yet but within this week ill have them done. What are there disadvantages to the solids? I also purchased an Energy suspension polyurethne transmisson mount. Looks Nice!

I used moroso solid mounts for years in the 440. they weren't a problem. I could hardly tell the difference over stock mounts and a torque strap. If your engines set up well and idles smoothly its no big deal

The trouble with using rubber mounts is if they break. If the engine jumps off the slots then it can open the throttle and your in big trouble. Ask Jeff Tomlinson, thats how he wrote off his 12 sec coronet.

That's right Tig. I've had several mounts break. The engine jumps up and hits the hood.

I had a Coronet 440 R/T with solid mounts i drove on the street, and i could barely tell the difference when driving. But i'd rather it sat on rubber nowdays.

With a torque bar (for want of a better word) with rubber eyes, it's still on rubber, but the mounts wont break. With that, or some of the new unbreakable types of mount, I can't see the point of using solid mounts.

The mounts I use are made by Dyna Tech Engineering. They look like original mounts in every way but inside the rubber they use a tapered shaft that limits the amount of compression or expansion (depending on which side mount it is) so the effect is at idle it is a normal rubber mount but then when the engine starts to move over they lock up and go solid.

Or maybe I dreamt that?

I really thought HP2 engines came with a torque strap. The strap on mine mounts on the back of the engine mount so you can't see it unless you are unbolting the mount or oil dip-stick tube. It goes from the back of the bottom long bolt up to the top right bolt that the dipstick tube fixes to. I left it on because i was sure it was original and in any case is a back-up if a mount did fail for any reason.

Of the several cars that came over from the USA with mine there were a few badly damaged when picked up at the docks. One Charger had 30-odd miles on the clock that had not been there when it went on the ship. The freshly built engine had sized and ripped off it's mounts. The fan went through the radiator. "That's how it came off the ship mate" was the official line. Dockers! (spit!). The other restored Charger in the shipment needed a new quarter panel and a '57 C*evy stepside pick-up had a concave roof with big boot prints. The importer went out of business after this.

are sh1t I just use a bit of chain.

David. I'm absolutely certain that the torque strap you describe is an aftermarket piece.

As you probably know, i brought in a lot of cars during the early 80's. several arrived with damage. I shipped most cars 'roll on, roll off', i had to remove everything of value from the cars, or the dockers or ship crew would steal anything they could find. It's best to leave the full set of keys with the car; this avoids the need for these b*st*rds to jemmy the boot open. They even steal the horn push button, the dome lamp lens, any emblems, ie Charger, Road Runner, etc prised off with a screwdriver. Anything easily removed gets stolen.

I had a 57 Ch*vy Bel Air coupe they left the parking brake off. So the car rolled back and forth during the journey smashing into a Cadillac behind it and the car in front. The owner of the Caddy was devastated when he picked the car up; not only did it have this damage, but someone had completely wrecked the dash to steal the radio. It was a mess. The guy was in tears.

Even containering the cars didn't help. I sent some, where I had to leave the cars, and the dockers drove them into the containers, damaging my GTX and Road Runner in the process.

All this puts me off importing cars again.

Intresting topic! Time to remove the dust from it and reveal our thoughts and experiances? Wadda ya think about this torque strap from Schumacher? http://www.engine-swaps.com/frames/fram ... strap.html
I think it looks OK except for a small detail: The mount on the engine side looks a bit homemade (see the second pic). Surely quite easy to do something more serious...

Yea that bracket looks pretty cheap, probably will bend and make the strap useless.

It looks about 1/2" thick so I don't thing it will bend. It is designed to mount over the sway bar bracket which is quite neat.

I don't know how much vibration will be transmitted back to the driver. Maybe not much if it is rubber isolated. Many cars have a torque strap or rod as standard. Like the old Mini for example.

At the moment I am using a large welded link chain of the type used to stop people stealing your motorcycle. I have one end bolted to the block where the engine mounts attach. The chain then runs down and around the sway bar mount and fixes back up on the water pump where the power steering bracket used to be attached.

The chain has a tiny bit of slack so vibration into the chassis is not a problem at idle and cruise. It pulls tight as soon as you rev the engine but I cannot say I have noticed any vibration in the steering etc even then.

OK it is not as pretty or fancy but it does the job and it is not going to break!

dave-r wrote:OK it is not as pretty or fancy but it does the job and it is not going to break!

Sounds like a tag line for" Dave's famous torque straps." Available for 99 GBP, plus shipping. Buy now! Strip tested and approved.


Please make your check out to the "Don't tell my wife about the Hemi Fund, Care of Dave

It is multi functional too!

Use it to lift the engine out.
Use it to secure yourself to the toilet when you have had too many beers + curry at the office party.

Hey you could use it in the bedroom too! If you like that sort of thing that is.

Ah yes, Beer & Curry. Now there is recipe to spend the evening alone