The Dodge Challenger Message Board

You should be able to blow an air line thru the idle channel to see if its blocked but that won't tell you if there is some restriction.
Experiment with float heights, if the engine likes it then good, just cos they are supposed to be set at the bottom of the plug don't always mean it works like that.
Is the throttle blade bent and uncovering the slots?
Probably wrong on all counts but just a thought

Hi again guy´s and im so sorry about my delay whit this subject but my life has been He.. for about 5 weeks now ! Blowing in the air bleeds for the idel circut in the out board carbs did the trick so thats solved and by ritching up the idel about a 1/4 of a turn that unfortunatly makes it more stinky did the trick on when i brake and the engine stays alive but i had to make it idel on about 1000 rpm ! As far as the air cleaner i built whit the filter element that i had a debate about is so far as i can tell on the power range not making any restriction but i dont have any cold hard facts to back that up yet as the car hasent been put on the rolls yet but i promis you Dave it will come !!!!!!!!!! The throttel responce is way better whit these carbs and i whas worryed about the coller of the spark pluggs as they where littery clean at the AF ratio of almost 15 so i have ritchend the center carbs jets 4 steps and will read the pluggs soone again but MAN IT IS RUNNING GREAT

I will try to post the results of the compleat air cleaner whit the lid tomorow but i will have to hit the bed now

We'll done Pat at least it's passed the seat of the pants test
What do the AFR's show now?
Lookin forward to the test results

Ade im not on top of the AF ratio right now becas i burned the box when i cut the cabel to the lamnda so i will have to read the pluggs for now ! here is the picture of the air cleaner.

I put in my old lamda in today that is the lean or ritch model from Autometer and it lights up two green steps in the ritch indications al the way from 1900rpm and up to the shiftlight flash at about 5500rpm so it do not look like the air cleaner chokes the engine but i have not so far been abel to afford e new broadband unit ! Hope santa can do something for me this year but im pretty happy whit the what i so far have done and the anular boosters do not lean out on high rpm´s as some state and i dont think i can back of on the jets from were im now becas of the detonations i had before i back of on ignition and up on the jets zice in al 3 carbs. I shore do need a new stronger drive shaft so im going to call Cass and have him order one for me so i can have that in for next spring.

Looks very cool Pat, you done good work there
Did you do a plug chop?
If you can't hear any detonation, it doesn't bog or there's no flat spot and the exhaust doesn't make your eyes water I reckon you probably got it right

Nice work Pat! I get my parts from Cass too! Great guy to deal with! Hope you get a new Lambda Sensor/set-up,,,I'd be lost without mine!

Thanks for the suport guy´s =) Even if i get a real readout whit a broadband lamda i cant back of on the A/F ratio as it will start to detonate but for shore i will buy a new one later ! One thing i just cant get over is the fact that i have to run whit a pretty ritch mixture on idel to keep the engine running on idel when i brake and the fuel level in the bowls do not have any thing to do whit it.... Even now on the mixure im running i can see the old lamda dropping down so low on lean that there is no light left for how low it is It keeps buggin me as i would realy come over that as i can run it way leander standing still on idel ! Anything you guy´s have ever experienst ?

Do you run a vac can on the distributor? The only way I can get a clean exhaust at idle on my fairly mild 440 is to run manifold vac to the dizzy. I can't see how you can run on the street without it

Adrian Worman wrote:Do you run a vac can on the distributor? The only way I can get a clean exhaust at idle on my fairly mild 440 is to run manifold vac to the dizzy. I can't see how you can run on the street without it

I agree Ade! Pat,,do you have open chambers, (they need more timing), do you have early/late intake timing events,(240 degrees or more @.050), more initial timing also need,,whats the idle vacuum and is it fairly steady at idle? Bigger cams show the needle fluctuating but not wildly. Anything below 14" is gonna need 18-24 or more of initial. Is the timing stable,,I'm going to order a Shaft Collar for my distributor,,they seem to work well and help stabilize the timing curve. Having a richer mixture kinda helps confirm you might need more initial? Richer mix burns quicker. What do the plugs look like? If all this checks out,,then I would look into the carb inner workings,,have you tried holding a finger over the high speed air bleeds at idle,(the closest one to the center of the carb),,does it pick up revs when you do this? Hope you get it figured out Pat,,oh yeah,,no gasket overhang or anything like that,,I think you have been thru them a few times,,nice custom work Pat! I too use ported Manifold Vacuum on my 440SixPack,,starts right up,,idles very nicely,,12" vacuum nice throttle response,,,I use the Pro-Max metering blocks and rear billet adjusatble base plate. I have 20 initial,,14 Mech. Manifold Vacum FBO Dizzy with 12 degrees vacuum in the Vac. Pot.

Im running whit 16 BTDC at idel ! I have about 11,6 comp whit the Edelbrock RPM 84cc heads so maybe you understand more now as my struggel whit detonations had to come to me dropping down full curve to 30 BTDC and give it more fuel to get rid of that bad issue but id realy like to understand why it leans out when i drive and just brake down the car whit engine on idel !