[Bryan Eidins (Bryan)]

am i right in thiking that the k-member is the frame that sits below the engine,if so has anyone ever changed one and what was invoved,mine seems to have been repaired at some point,if you look into the engine from above the radiator on the passenger side of the k-member there is a rod that goes through the k-member and someone has welded a washer on each side which puts that side out by about 10mm.the rod that goes through the k-member has a thread on it is it adjustable?

many thanks bryan

[Dave R (Roppa440)]

Sounds odd to me. That is the K-frame you are lookinmg at. It is just held onto the chassis with 4 bolts but to change it the engine and suspension all have to come off.

[Von (Von)]

I had the same problem. mine is on the passenger side. the k-frame has a sleeve in it that the rod goes through. when it got worn through probably because they didn't have bushings in it, they welded washers to take the place of the sleeve. I ended up just buying another car shell for $100 and taking the k-frame off it. the threads are not for adjusting i don't think, you need to make it tight. right Dave?

[Dave R (Roppa440)]

Wait a moment. I am starting to see the light here. Are we talking about the two struts that locate the lower control arms? There is one each side?

Each strut is bolted at one end to the lower control arm and the other end passes through a hole in the side of the k-frame. There should be a rubber (or better still - polly) bush on this end squashed between two large washers with a large castleated nut holding it all together. A split pin stops the nut coming loose. This is a very important part as it stops the lower control arm from swinging about.

[Von (Von)]

thats what I'm talking about, Im not for sure about Bryan.

[Bryan Eidins (Bryan)]

that is exactly what im talking about,i seem to only have washers on the passenger side,i am going to get a new k-member from hugh,has anyone changed one

how was sunny surrey dave,i only live 10 miles from bagshot in woking,next time your down dave maybe we can hook up.

[Dave R (Roppa440)]

It was sunny!
Trouble is that with my sister just ouside Bagshot and my in-laws in Caterham I usually spend all my spare time on the M25 between the two!

I thought the K-frame hugh has is for a slant 6 engine? The mounts are different you know?

I had my k-frame off for cleaning and painting. You will have to take the whole front suspension off and remove the engine. Then the frame is just held on with 4 bolts.

[John P (Blue)]

It is possible to change the K frame without stripping too much down. Here's how to do it, jack the car up and put axle stands at front of chassis ahead of the front K frame bolts, remove wheels and loosen the torsion bar adjusting bolts fully. Put a jack under the lower control arm and raise it a little to take the weight, and remove the 2 bolts that hold the bottom ball joint to the spindle,and the bolt that holds the shock to the arm , lower the jack, then do the same on the other side. Remove the 2 nuts that hold the strut rods to the K frame, and the 2 nuts that hold the lower control arms to the K frame, and the 3 bolts that hold the steering box to the K, tie up the box from above to take it's weight. Support the weight of the engine from above with an engine hoist , and remove the engine mounts. You can now remove the 4 bolts that hold the K to the body , with some careful levering you can get the K off leaving the lower control arms hanging on the torsion bars. I'm assuming that you have no sway bar, if you do then completly remove it before you start. You really need 2 people to do it this way as it can be fiddly.Unless of course, you want to rebush the rest of it while you're at it , in which case strip the lot down as Dave say's!

[Bryan Eidins (Bryan)]

thanks for that will i be able to adapt the k member hugh has to fit the v8